... we finally made it to Machu Picchu! We took 14 modes of transport to travel from Northern Japan!
*****
Last year, we booked a 6 night/7day trek on the Salkantay/Inca Trail that would lead us to Machu Picchu. This is how we hoped to experience Peru, by hiking through the Andes and hiking up to "The Lost City of the Incas" with our kids. However, nature had other plans. Our trek was cancelled (along with our entry tickets to the ruins) due to landslides in the Salkantay region. The Inca Trail was also closed due to the inclement weather.
Our trek was cancelled while we were in Japan. We had been preparing for this since our walk across Spain. We had also been carrying our basic gear and layers for ten months in preparation for the conditions in the Andes. Also, while traveling through Vietnam and Japan we started breaking in our kids' hiking boots. Parker and I were heavily disappointed to say the least.
Flights and accommodations were already booked so we decided to continue on to Peru. We had to redo our entire itinerary literally on the fly (while we were plane hopping across the Pacific Ocean). It was a stressful situation but we decided to make the most of it.
After a lot of research, we found out that the Ministry of Cultures reserves tickets for walk-ins at Aguas Calientes, the last town before Machu Picchu. Tickets online have already been sold out for months. Imagine booking 14 modes of transport to a destination and not be guaranteed an entry. It felt risky to go all the way to Aguas Calientes without tickets to Machu Picchu but this was our only choice.
We explored beautiful Cuzco (and Rainbow Mt) for five days, hopped on a two-hour bus to Ollantaytambo, and then a train to Aguas Calientes. The Vistadome Train on PeruRail was a great way to see the Andes. The train provided panoramic views with windows all around with the skylight overhead. The scenery was breathtaking as we followed Urubamba River to the base of Machu Picchu.
It's a whole process to get these tickets. As soon as we arrived, we had to go to the Ministry of Cultures, get an appointment time for later that day, come back for our appointment, and hope for a good circuit ticket for the following day.
Machu Picchu tickets are divided into three main cuircuts: Circuit 1 is the Panoramic, Circuit 2 is the Inka City, and Circuit 3 is the Royal Circuit. These three circuits have a total of ten options combined. To our surprise, four tickets were available for the 2A circuit (the best circuit with the the best views). Finally, a little luck was on our side.
*****
Our Machu Picchu day was filled with much anticipation (mostly from me). The morning was overcast and drizzly but when we arrived at the site the rain stopped. Another lucky break! The circuits are one way and you only get two and a half hours to explore your designated route. Although it was busy, the groups tried to give each other space.
My first glimpse of the City in the Clouds took my breath away. I saw that it had the same effect on Parker. We made it. Below us was one of the New Wonders of the World. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Lost City of the Incas was surrounded in mystical clouds.
The site has an indescribable palatable energy. Perched on top of the mountain were the ancient ruins of the last Incan Civilization that perfectly blended into the Andes Mountains. We were in awe.
Machu Picchu was built for the Incan Emperor Pachacutec. It served as a religious site and royal estate. The city sits on top of the mountain at 7,972ft, surrounded by the stunning Peruvian Andes. The citadel consists of temples, terraces, fountains, and an intricate water management systems.
We walked up several platforms where we could take in the panoramic views. We spent about an hour on top and when we made our way down, it started to drizzle as the clouds came in. The poor visitors with a 12pm entry didn't get to see the panoramic view.
Our guide lead us around the ruins in the rain. Of course we came prepared for the rain and really enjoyed experiencing the ruins that way. Due to the precipitation, we saw the intricate irrigation system in action. Machu Picchu has many natural springs and has 19 interconnected fountains.
The primary structures of the citadel are: Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Three Windows, and the Intihuatana (Sacred Rock) where religious ceremonies and rituals took place. The Sacred Rock is believed to have been used by the Incas as a sundial and as an astronomical calendar. The Inca's architectural and astronomical knowledge is remarkable.
On our way out, we walked by llamas that lived at the site. We felt so lucky to that we got to see the panoramic view of the whole of the ancient city and got to explore the citadel in the rain.
The rain stopped at the end of our tour. We opted to walk down the mountain to Aguas Calientes instead of taking the bus. It was 1,600 carved steps from the top down to the river! The 8kms to town had an elevation drop of 3,600ft. Our legs were jello when we got to the bottom. Walking down through the subtropical foliage was a memorable way to end our remarkable day.
*****
The next day, on our way out of Agua Calientes, a train coming towards us called for our train to stop. We were only 15 minutes into our one and a half hour journey to Ollantaytambo (the only way in, or out of Aquas Calientes is on this train line near the river). There had been a landslide ahead of us on the tracks, and an earth mover was called to remove the rocks.
Our train was delayed five hours, turning our one and a half hour train ride into a seven hour all-day ordeal. We learned that it was actually two land slides and a section of the tracks was damaged and had to be replaced. When we were finally cleared to move forward, we saw the rocks and the old tracks casted of to the side. The landslide was only five minutes away from where our train stopped.
My heart skipped a beat as I realized how close were were to the landslide. All of our disappointment in the cancelation of our trek dissipated in that moment. Parker and I exchange glances, acknowledging our luck in dodging a dangerous situation.
This trek was originally on our last Around the World itinerary in 2010/2011. But we decided to go home early, at 18 months, to start our family. Parker and I promised each other that we would take our future children on a trek to see Machu Picchu.
In the end we got to see the Natural Wonder of Machu Picchu. I lack the words to describe its marvel. We are grateful that in our once in a life time chance with out kids, the clouds parted briefly and we got to see and experience its wonder together.