Tuesday, March 25, 2025

Pokémon...Gotta Catch Them All!




Japan! Cruz's #1 destination and Kaia's #2 choice.

As a mega Pokémon fan, it was no surprise that Cruz wished to go to Japan. In second grade, their school hosts a “Living Museum” of inventors (past or present). He wrote a report about Satoshi Tajiri and dressed up as the creator of Pokémon. 


Cruz as Satoshi Tajiri in 2nd Grade
(With his best bud as a Wright Brother)

The first thing Kaia and Cruz wanted to do in Tokyo was go to the Pokémon Cafe. It was conveniently located next to the largest Pokémon Center in Japan. 

I had no idea that it was an almost impossible task to get reservations at the first ever Pokémon Café. There are only two in the world (both are in Japan).

Reservations open up 31 days prior at 6pm, Japan time. Like a crazy mom, I logged on 31 days before  the day we wanted to visit at 6pm (while we were in Vietnam). Every spot was taken immediately. The site  crashes every day at 6pm as people from Japan and around the world try to make their reservations.


Pokémon Eats

After going down the internet rabbit hole of how to get into this mystical café, I came to the conclusion that our best bet was to take two trains, navigate through a mega mall, and get in line hoping to snag a no-show spot. There was a roped off section for very hopeful families (and adults!) waiting in line for a cancelation. We prepared Cruz for the possible disappointment but after an hour of waiting, we got in!

The café was a Pokémon fanatic's dream. Everything was 100%  detailed in Pokémon, from decor to placemats to every food item. We all tried a different dish and every thing was either shaped as a character or decorated to the tiniest detail. The food was okay but ridiculously adorable.


 
Happy Cruz!

Shortly after we were sat, all service stopped as Pikachu came out to greet everyone.  The employees led the dancing and singing. We had no idea that it was such a big deal to get into this café. Parker and I are not part of  "Pokémon fandom" but sharing this experience with our kids and witnessing other children (and adults) in the café share in the excitement about this global phenomenon was special. Seeing Cruz so happy (even his pre-teen sis was amused) was worth the craziness.




Friday, March 7, 2025

Hanoi: Goodbye, Vietnam!


Capital - Hanoi

Vietnam was the perfect country to ring in the 2025 Lunar New Year. Our two months there started off slow by the beach but then it flew by as we headed north. Instead of hopping around to different countries in mainland Southeast Asia, Parker and I decided to focus our time in one country. We felt that would be a more positive and enjoyable experience for our kids as opposed to constantly moving. 

We spent our two months in the top half of Vietnam, from central (Da Nang/Hoi An) to northern (Ninh Binh/Hanoi), spanning about 800 kilometers. I'm glad we got to see the contrast between the the modern city of Da Nang with its gorgeous beaches and the remoteness of the beautiful northern landscape.


Local Lunch in the Old Quarter

After Ninh Binh, we headed to Hanoi for our last week. The nation's capital is over 1,000 years old. With a population of over eight million people and an estimation of over six million motor bikes, it is very loud and full of energy. A mix of old and modern: Ancient buildings are next to skyscrapers and street food vendors next to fancy French cafes. We loved both.

Our hotel was in the famous Old Quarter, right in the middle of the madness. I loved the chaos. The area is comprised of about forty narrow streets jam packed with hotels, cafes, restaurants, street vendors, street food stalls, and shops selling everything you could imagine.


Flower Vendor

One of the most interesting things about the old quarter is that most of the streets are named after what they sell: Clothing, shoes, fruit/vegetables, electronics, etc. I had a slight obsession with the bicycle venders selling flowers and took a photo of everyone I saw. 

Vietnam is also known for its knock off luxury brands (Louis Vuitton, Dior, etc) and fake gear (North Face, Nike, etc). Many of these brands have factories here so maybe some of them are real. Most of the fakes look near perfect for the fraction of the price.


We love both local and interantional eats!

In less than 24 hours, we found our favorite breakfast cafe, pho restaurant, bahn mi stand, crepe stand, and our go-to bicycle fruit vendor. If we all decide we love a place, we kept going to the same spot. We do a mix of mostly local food and some international (usually when the kids or Parker are craving pizza, burgers, etc). 

Hanoi is a food hub, if we saw locals eating somewhere it was a no brainer. The food was delicious, quick, and inexpensive. We saw the most "food tours" here. Usually a couple of foreigners (sometimes a group) with a guide that were bouncing from café to food stall or their favorite street vendor.  


*****


Train Street Hanoi: tourist doing tourist things!


The famous "train street" was an experience. It is a famous street in Hanoi known for the cafes right next to the tracks in the heart of the Old Quarter. It was hard to miss with tourists and vendors on and off the train tracks. Even though we were quite early, we were very lucky to find chairs for all of us. We had snacks and apps while we waited for the train.


Train Street

It was entertaining to watch everyone take their photos on the tracks before the train came. The workers started blowing their whistle and started yelling at everyone to get off the track and back up when the train was approaching. 

Some tourist were not listening until one worker said, "get off the track if you don't want to die"!




After much anticipation, the train finally came and it was really exciting! We were only a couple feet away. It was so loud and you could feel the train fly by. Kaia was understandably a bit hesitant and stayed back a little. Cruz was on the edge with us and took it all in. He said it was fun but crazy! 

When the excitement died down, the workers started yelling and blowing their whistles again. Another train was coming through. It was fun to get to experience that twice. Sometimes, the "must-do" tourist things are worth the hype.

*****

Vietnam was a great choice for our family. We loved the culture, the food, and it was easy to navigate. We joined a world schooling group and met many families also doing long-term traveling. That was good for the kids to see. We all made great friends and wonderful memories.


Monday, March 3, 2025

500 Steps to a Dragon for my Birthday!


Ngo Dong River Valley

Another trip around the sun for me! We celebrated exactly the way I wanted, by being outdoors. We biked through rice fields and climbed 500 steps to a dragon on top of a sketchy mountain top. 

But first, we had to make our way up to Northern Vietnam via an epic 16 hour sleeper bus.


*****


 

Prepared with comfy clothes, all the snacks, downloaded books, and fully charged electronics, we loaded the bus. We've been on various modes of transportation on this trip but never a sleeper bus.  Obviously Parker wouldn't be able to fully extend but he was up for trying it out. The beds were wide, reclined when needed, and were comfortable. 

At 4am, we were abruptly woken up when the bus stopped at an undesignated location. The bright lights blinded us as the driver tried to rush everyone off. I had read on a travel site that this sometimes happens on this particular bus route. When I pulled up the map we were actually closer to our lodging than our previously planned drop-off location. Parker and I made the quick decision to not fight it and get off the bus.



Our manic bus driver got us to the Tam Coc "bus stop" two hours early. Even if we had told him to take us further to our actual drop-off location (16k away), we knew the taxi I had arranged for at 6am wouldn't be there. This is not our first rodeo with middle of the night transport chaos.

The situation was a little frantic. But we remained calm as we woke up our kids and explained to them our plan: we had to walk a little over a kilometer in the dark to our lodging. Cruz said, "It's like the Camino." (We would often start our walk early in the mornings through random small villages). We were happy to hear this, because one of the reasons we started our trip on the Camino in Spain was to be in a variety of travel scenarios and walk anywhere if  necessary.

After Spain, walking one kilometer in the dark at 4am, in the middle of nowhere just wasn't that big of a deal. We knew where we were and knew where we needed to go. It was a great opportunity to teach our kids how to assess and handle unexpected travel situations. They didn't sweat it. We were proud of them for being so adaptable.



In the morning, we woke up to one of my favorite lodgings in our travels. Photos do not do it justice. We woke up surrounded by limestone cliffs with a slight mist and birds chirping. Our lodge was on the edge of a small "lake" with an adorable bridge leading to pool creating a peninsula in the middle of the property.


*****



I knew exactly where I wanted to be for my birthday, Ninh Binh. Ever since I saw a photo of this region's landscape, I knew we had to see this part of Vietnam.

Mua Caves is a popular destination for international and Vietnamese tourists. Its' popularity was no surprise once we entered the park. It was more beautiful than I had imagined. The main attraction is the temple/dragon on top of the limestone mountain/cliffs. Fields of rice paddies on one side and a narrow slow-moving river on the other side provide a stark contrast to the cliffs.



The park was beautiful with several caves, koi ponds, a waterfall, and a network of wooden planks throughout the rice paddies and lotus ponds. The weather was overcast and cool, mid 70s, perfect for a climb. We let the kids lead and they easily made it to the two main viewpoints. 


Climbing Up to the Dragon with the Pagoda in the Background

The first point was a small pagoda over looking a fantastic view of the fields. After a quick water break, we continued on to the top of the mountain to the temple and the dragon. The steps were a little tall but not overly challenging. The stairway was wide for the most part so even though it was crowded, there was enough room for everyone.


Dragon Slayers

Behind the small temple on top was the dragon on a thin, weathered and jagged rocky ledge. That’s were we hit the photo-shoot traffic jam. Everyone was trying to take their “summit” photo. Most people were respectful and only took a minute or so. The “influencers” were seriously annoying. We were all balancing on legitimately sharp and jagged rocks as a line formed behind them while they were taking their time doing their ridiculous poses. Most of us were quick with our photos and then moved on to enjoy the view somewhere safer. It was sketchy up there, but fun. The kids did a great job. 




I've always imagined biking through rice fields in Vietnam, it is an amazing way to see the country side. This day totally delivered with the views and the weather. I feel so lucky to have spent it in this beautiful country with my family.


Sunday, March 2, 2025

Magical Hoi An, Vietnam


Celebrating 25 Years Together!

Hoi An was our second destination in Vietnam and was a short thirty minutes south of Da Nang. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and our home for two weeks.

We were ready to see more of the countryside of Vietnam. I found a wonderful two bedroom villa that was in between the beach and the town center. Our stay included a delicious breakfast as well as access to free bicycles. The beach or town was a short ride away.




Being outside of the city center was nice and quiet, yet we still had a ton of restaurants and stores to choose from. Quickly, we settled into our normal routine of a slow wake up, breakfast, school, then exploring the country side.

We looked forward to our daily bike rides once school was over. Behind our villa were rice fields and a small network of narrow roads that we enjoyed wandering and getting lost in. 


*****




Charming does not begin to describe the ancient city of Hoi An. It is known as the "Yellow City" because that is the color most of the buildings are painted. The endless hues of yellow are especially striking as the light and tones change throughout the day. This well preserved jewel of Vietnam with its ancient architecture, cobbled streets, and colorful lanterns emits history and romance.




An intricate system of canals through town offers tourist an optional view for a small fee. It was once a major trading port dating back to the 15th century. Today, tourism is its major trade and thousands of us visit daily. 

We did the obligatory tourist boat ride in the evening. The boat ride was surprisingly peaceful even though we were surrounded by many other boats. Each boat had a lantern and it was indeed a beautiful way to see the city. The night market in Hoi An was the busiest we've visited on this trip, with all the people and lanterns, it was high energy. 




Hoi An is well known for it's custom tailors, colorful lanterns, unique art, and beautiful leather work. We all decided to get something custom made out of leather. Parker sketched and design a leather apron made out of buffalo hide. I designed a purse that could be converted to a clutch.  Kaia found a backpack she loved and got to choose the leather. Cruz found his first big boy wallet. 





This is a big year for us, Parker and I met 25 years ago and have been together ever since. Later this year is our 20th wedding anniversary. These years have flown by!

It was special to celebrate this milestone with our kids. Parker surprised me with a ring made at the Silver House. He had made for me a replica of the ring we gave Kaia for her 12th birthday, that symbolized the Camino, our walk in Spain. These are all special mementos that will remind us of our time in Vietnam and our trip.

It was overwhelming at times to walk through hoards of people on the streets. Each building had café, restaurant, or a shop mostly offering an array of souvenirs. Day or night, everywhere you looked were tourist from around the world taking selfies or in the middle of a photo shoot. Also at every turn, we would have to navigate around a giant tour group. 

Perhaps it’s always been that way even before it was a tourist trap since it was once a bustling trading port. But when you do get a glimpse of the city, Hoi An is magical. 


*****



After Hoi An, we decided to go back to Da Nang for a couple of weeks before making our way to north Vietnam. We preferred the beach in Da Nang, the ease of the city life with our homeschooling schedule, and hanging out with our friends.

One day we took a little "field trip" with our friends to the Marble Mountain. Marble mountain is a cluster of five mountains made of marble and limestone, each named after one of the five elements: Thuy (Water), Moc (Wood), Hoa (Fire), Kim (Metal), and Tho (Earth).




One hundred and fifty-seven steps take you to  a landing where you can begin to explore. The Marble Mountains are rich in history and has cultural and spiritual significance. Throughout the mountains were Hindu and Buddhist sanctuaries, pagodas, temples, gardens, and caves. Trees and plants blended into the limestone cliffs and surrounding landscape.



It is difficult to explain the beauty of these Marble Mountain, it felt spiritual and sacred. We spent a couple of hours climbing and exploring. We made it to the top of Thuy by squeezing through a tiny opening and were rewarded with a panoramic view of Da Nang. 




Monday, February 3, 2025

Happy Lunar New Year, 2025!



 The Year of the Snake.

In 2024,  Parker and I said yes to our dream of showing our kids the world. In six months, we have made it halfway around the globe: 

USA > England > France  > Spain > Portugal > Egypt > The Philippines > Vietnam

What a year! Both Kaia and Cruz have grown a measurable amount, both in stature and in maturity. Homeschooling is going well, and they are learning even more from our travels. Parker and I are grateful for this opportunity and time with our children. 


*****





We are ready for 2025! 

A New Lunar Year! A New country! New language! New food! And New Beginnings!

Our first destination is Da Nang, Vietnam. We originally planned to hop around Southeast Asia for a couple of months. However, we are all happier when we move slower and explore one country for a while. This is how Parker and I prefer to travel and it's much better for the kids. This coastal city in central Vietnam was perfect for the slight change in cooler temperatures (mid to high 70s), its walkability, the beautiful 10km beach, and finally, its local and international food options.

Our flight was super delayed and we did not arrive to our apartment until 12:30am, in the rain. We had chosen a touristy part of the city for convenience and surprisingly, most of the restaurants were still open. After we checked in we ordered our first bowl of pho, one of our favorite dishes back home.  Our kids took the flight delay and late night/early morning traveling in stride. They are now seasoned travelers. We were all starving but in good spirits. The hot pho at 1am was the perfect welcome to Vietnam.


*****


Beautiful Tet Blooms and Decorations 

Arriving  mid-January in Da Nang, two weeks before Tet (the Lunar New Year), was a great way to kick off our 2025 travels. The city was in full swing as it began the two weeks of preparation for the country's biggest holiday of the year. The energy was festive as the locals and businesses adorned their homes and establishments. 

This year, Tet is on January 29th. It is observed January 25th-Feb 2nd. Everywhere you looked were lucky strings, lanterns, fresh flowers, and blossoming trees. Offering tables were set up outside of homes and businesses for their ancestors. The city was coming alive with color, lights, and music.

Da Nang is a bustling coastal city with over 1.2 million people. At first, we weren't sure if we wanted to stay longer than a week because after all, a city is a city. Giant hotels and condos hugged the coastline and we could have been in any coastal city in the world. But after a couple of days walking around we appreciated it's mix of Vietnamese and international vibe. 


*****


My Khe Beach

The famous My Khe Beach was a block from our apartment. The biggest draw of Da Nang is it's 10km stretch of white sandy beach. We spent a lot of time on the beach when the sun was out. The temps were mostly in the mid to high 70s.

We choose Da Nang because it has the best surfing in Vietnam. But coming from the warm tropical waters of the Philippines, the cooler temps of the water was too cold for the kids and I. I'm holding out for warmer temps before I surf. The colder water didn't bother Parker. He was the only one who surfed. Cruz did body board with him. While the boys played in the cold water, Kaia built sand sculptures and I enjoyed the sunshine.

Next to the beach was a wide walkway that followed the coastline. We walked the path for many miles every day, usually in the late afternoon or early evening.  Exercise equipment was scattered through-out. The kids especially loved the pull up bars. Every evening there were several groups of Zumba dancers on our walk. Much to my family's embarrassment, I jumped in and joined the dancers for a couple of minutes. The coastal walkway was always full of locals and tourist, enjoying the sea breeze and getting exercise.


*****



The street that our apartment was on was not only a block from the beach, it also had everything we needed. In a couple of days, we had found our "go-tos": a small grocery store with a bakery, our favorite pho restaurant, our favorite breakfast restaurant, an awesome crepe/pancake food truck, and our go to bahn mi/shake stand right out side our door. There is also every type of international cuisine you could ever want just around the corner.  

Vietnam is extremely affordable, especially the food. The exchange rate is favorable for us: 25,000 Dong is $1USD. Counting in the thousands has been a fun challenge for the kids (and us). You can get a meal for just a couple of dollars and a great meal for around $10-$15.

Beef Pho: 55,000 Dong = $2.19.

Fresh baguette: 6,000 Dong = $0.24 (24 cents for hot bread at the bakery)!

Bahn Mi (baguette sandwich with pork):  15,000 Dong = $0.60.

Fruit Shake/Smoothie: 20,000 Dong = $0.80.

International food like pizza, pasta, burgers, etc,  are of course more expensive but it's still a great value. We have been eating pho for lunch because we love it and it's quick. In the evenings, we wander around and try out different types of food/restaurants. We are wondering if we will get tired of eating pho. I'm not so sure about the rest of my family but I don't think I'll ever get tired of pho.


*****


We did not escape the Pharaoh's Tomb!


Da Nang is becoming well known as a city for digital nomads because of it's beaches, mild climate and affordability. It's also popular for world schooling families. I joined a meet-up group and we met families on the beach from around the world: New Zealand, Australia, Europe, and several families from the states. 

At the beach, we also met a family, originally from Norway, with kids the same age as Kaia and Cruz. We met up many times at the beach and we even did an escape room together. The kids chose the Pharaoh's tomb because our trip to Egypt was still very fresh in our memories. We were entering the final clue in the fourth, and last, room when we ran out of time. We were so close, (says everyone who doesn't escape) but we really only needed one more minute to finish entering the last code to break out of the tomb.  So close!

*****

Dragon Bridge

One of our favorite things in Da Nang was the Dragon Bridge and Son Tra Night Market (which was next to the bridge). The dragon spanned the whole length of the bridge. The lights throughout the dragon changed colors every few minutes during the day. At 9pm on the weekends, the dragon breathed actual fire for 15 minutes. The bridge is closed during this time and we were able to get a good view. It was a really cool thing to see. At the end of the 15 minutes, water gushed from the dragons mouth, like a broken fire hydrant, to end the show. We were about 50 yards from the dragon's head and we cold feel the heat and the mist.


Night Market Bites

The night market was amazing. It had the usual souvenirs, name-brand knock offs, and delicious local food. Our favorite part was the food. The kids could never pass up the rolled ice-cream. We enjoyed trying new dishes. I especially loved the small corn bowl filled with shrimp or quail egg. 

Child sized chairs are common in eateries around Vietnam. Seeing Parker in a kiddie chair will never be not hilarious. If you see these chairs in a restaurant or next to a food stall, it means it's local cuisine. If the restaurant is full, it usually means the food is good , inexpensive, and you should find a table asap. We have been to a lot of markets on this trip and this one is our favorite because of the great food and the Dragon Bridge. We went to the market three times and saw the fire breathing dragon twice.


*****


Bike Ride to Lady Buddha


On our last day in Da Nang, we rented bikes to visit the Lady Buddha at the Linh Ung Pagoda on the Son Tra Peninsula. It is a symbol of peace and prosperity. The locals also believe that it has the power to turn away typhoons.

Lady Buddha and Linh Ung Pagoda are on 50 acres. The complex includes many buildings, gardens, statues, and beautiful landscaping. The statue stands 220 feet tall. It was quite impressive but difficult to capture in photos. It's very important to the people of Vietnam. Even with all the visitors and tourist, it was still a peaceful place. Lady Buddha overlooks the city of Da Nang from the peninsula to the north, she is placed perfectly to protect the city.

We biked over 10 miles that day. The wide path along the beach was quick and easy. The uphill to the top of the peninsula was another story, it was hilly, winding, and had so much traffic. Huge tour buses, cars, and motorbikes flew by us. We were all riding single speed bikes which made the climb challenging. I was honestly a little nervous with the kids, but they are strong bikers and did great. The climb was worth the down hill return and we saw monkeys at the end of our descent.


*****




Da Nang gave us so much more than we had expected. We ended up staying almost three weeks and made some new friends. The city was vibrant, the beach was beautiful, the temperature was perfect, it was easy to navigate, and there was so much to explore. 

How lucky that we were able to experience Vietnam's most important Holiday, Tet. The festivities and fireworks right outside of our apartment at midnight was something we won't soon forget. 

This Lunar New Year is the year of the Snake. The snake symbolizes growth, renewal, and adaptability. This is the year to reflect on your current path, embrace change, and seek personal growth. It was the perfect start to our 2025 adventures.

Monday, January 27, 2025

#5: Double Digits and 12 Pigs


After sharing our world travel plans with our kids, we asked them, if they had the choice, where would they wish to celebrate their birthdays? Without hesitation, Cruz said, "the Philippines"! 

*****

Our baby boy is 10!

Cruz's big day began at 5am, with a las mananitas. In the Philippines, loved ones are serenaded at dawn (a tradition from the Spanish) on their birthdays. At 5am my uncle played the guitar while we all sang Filipino and English songs by candlelight and took turns dancing with the birthday boy. After we sang, we had cake and coffee. Parker experienced this on his birthday on our last visit. I love that they will both have wonderful memories of this sweet tradition. 

His party was in the evening with family. My mom had ordered Cruz and Kaia's lechon party before we even left the states. We feasted on the crispy pork and all the Filipino sides. Of course, there was karaoke. Cruz is quite the entertainer and got the party going and kept it going. He is a Filipino for sure.



A few hours before the party, Kaia taught herself how to make balloon animals and balloon swords. It was a hit. The kids loved them and it kept them entertained. Cruz was thrilled and said she was the best sister ever. 

Cruz is the happiest boy we know. He is loved by everyone who knows him. His smile lights every room he walks into and it is contagious. Everywhere he goes, he makes friends because he is so happy and genuine.



  

Whatever Cruz does, he tackles with great enthusiasm. He is curious and has an insanely active imagination.  He loves superheroes, mystical characters and creatures, and is a natural storyteller.  We love his adventurous spirit and his willingness to try new experiences. He is always eager to try new food and does not hesitate to try new activities: surfing, jumping off waterfalls/cliffs, all the things. 

Happy birthday to the coolest 10-year-old we know! You are loved Cruzy Bear!


*****



The Philippines is much more than it's stunning 7,600+ islands: it's about family.

For 3.5 months, we got to be tourist and also got to experience the local life. The best of both worlds.

As tourists, we explored three very different islands: Siargao, Siquijor, and Palawan. We visited these islands for two weeks each. We surfed, snorkeled, swam, jumped off waterfalls, jumped off cliffs, kayaked, island hopped, motor biked around entire islands, and saw epic sunrises/sunsets.




More importantly, we got to spend precious time, two months, with family.  It's the most important destination on our trip.

Once again, we stayed with my Aunt Eugene and Uncle Modesto. Like last time, they were amazing hosts and treated us like their own kids (and grandkids). We decided to stay for a while because it was important for us that our truly kids remember our time here. We got to settle into a homeschool routine and spent a lot of time reading, playing the guitar, and hanging out with cousins.



We saw and experience so much during our visit: 

Kaia's belated 12th birthday celebration, the October Fiesta, parades, All Saints Day, Christmas caroling, Christmas Eve Mass, Christmas celebrations, las mananitas for Cruz's birthday, Cruz's 10th birthday party, and New Year's Eve/ New Year's Day celebrations and so much more. The immersion of the day-to-day routine with family and neighbors was fun and memorable.




The slower, unhurried pace of island life was easy to fall into. We got used to the chickens crowing at all hours, the karaoke blasting, and the frogs that croak endlessly during a rainstorm. We eventually adjusted to the stifling heat (Cruz didn't wear a shirt for months).

However, the tropics isn't without its challenges for non-natives. We battled skin infections, bug bites, and digestive issues. I contracted chikungunya, a viral disease spread by mosquitos (similar to dengue). We overcame each issue as it came. It's all part of traveling in the tropics and long-term travel.

Not surprisingly, we all gained a few (or more) kilos each during our visit. It was impossible for me to refuse all of the snacks and native dishes. Like true pinoys, my family kept us fed. All in all, between the fiestas and parties, we ate a total of twelve lechons. That's twelve whole roasted pigs! When I say it out loud and put it in writing, I finally realize how much pork we consumed: A LOT!



Parker and I are forever grateful for our time in the Philippines with our kids.  Thank you to my mom, Aunt Eugene and Uncle Modesto, cousins, and the rest of my family for always welcoming us with open arms. 

Daghang Salamat and Mahal ka namin!