The Great Pyramids of Giza on Kaia's Birthday!!!

Do you remember how you celebrated your 12th birthday? 

I don't. But I know I didn't tour the Great Pyramids of Giza! 

Parker and I were thrilled when we realized that after Spain, we still had plenty of time to visit Portugal, before making our way to Egypt for Kaia's big day. We wanted to gift our baby girl an unforgettable birthday.

*****

Cairo, Egypt welcomed us with a sweltering 105 degree afternoon. We arrived at the end of summer, which was evident once we were immersed in the arid desert climate. In the ancient city, we visited the extraordinary pyramids, saw mummies (and other really, really, really old things) at the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities, and went on a dinner cruise on the Nile River.

Landing in Cairo felt surreal. On our last trip around the world, we did not get to visit Egypt due to political unrest (the 2011 Egyptian Revolution). Thirteen years later, we finally made it.

Parker and I want to make sure that on this trip, we make our kids’ birthdays as memorable as possible. We know that we are on a once in a lifetime experience but we are also sensitive to the fact that they do miss their friends, especially on their birthdays.

Our hotel was kind enough to jazz up Kaia's pancake and added a candle to kick start her day. Then our private guide and driver picked us up at 9am. It took about 30 minutes to get to Giza from the City Center where we were staying.

Stepping foot on the Giza Plateau and finally seeing with our own eyes the only Ancient Wonder of the World still standing, is something we will never forget. It was boiling hot at 100F/37C and felt even hotter on the plateau since we were exposed. Of course, Parker had us put on more sunscreen and drink more water before we headed out onto the desert.

Out of respect for the local culture and tradition, we dressed modestly in Egypt despite the oppressive temperatures. We always wore pants (or a long dress) and covered our shoulders. Since I decided to wear a tank top, I wore a scarf over my shoulders when I was near others.

There are 118 pyramids in Egypt, but we decided to focus our time at the Giza Complex and its three pyramids (Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure), as well as the mystical Sphinx.

The pyramids have withstood the test of time and were built over 4,500 years ago. I will spare you my fifth-grade report about the Giza Pyramid (Khafu) but here are a few fun facts:

- The Pyramid of Giza, a tomb for Pharoh Khafu, is the oldest Pyramid and was built in 2600BC.

- It was the tallest structure in the world for over 3,800 years.

- The architectural wonder stands at 481 feet tall and took approximately twenty years to build.

- An estimated 2.3 million blocks were used, weighing 6 million tons.

- It was claimed that it took 100,000 people to build the pyramid (now it's believed to be closer to 20,000).

- The tombs showcased the high status of the deceased and their family.

Although there were a lot of us (tourist), once you arrived at the foot of a pyramid, it was amazing how insignificantly small we felt and how we seemingly disappeared next to the giant monuments.

The kids looked forward to the obligatory camel ride. Riding a camel is as awkward as you might expect, especially since you  are so high off the ground.  They got used to it and both of them were grinning ear to ear after we settled in: lean back when are going down, and lean forward when going up.

Last, we visited the mystical Sphinx, a creature with the head of a human and the body of a lion. It is the oldest monument in Egypt and is believed to represent the pharaoh Khafre. It is magnificent and alone. The Sphinx has outlasted and has witnessed the rise and fall of civilizations over the last 4,000 years. And here we were, in-line for the best photo-op and watching in amusement as people took kissing photos with one of the most recognizable statues in the world. 

We saw the pyramids! What a day! What a dream!

*****

Kaia chose to have quiet dinner at our rooftop hotel. We surprised her with a few gifts but the biggest surprise were the 15 birthday cards her friends had made for her before we left (the cards were from her best friends, classmates, swim team and martial arts friends). She was genuinely surprised and so happy to receive such thoughtful cards from home. Thank You, Friends!

It is a joy watching our sweet girl's growth on this trip: physically (she now towers over me) and emotionally. Parker and I love our first born who is kind, intelligent, observant, inquisitive, bilingual, and creative. We especially love her quick wit and wicked since of humor. Best of all, she is a great example for her baby brother. I love listening to her and her dad discussing everything from movies and entertainment to physics and space travel. I love watching her patiently teach her brother new things and creating new games with him. I love perusing bookstores and reading with my girl. I especially love seeing her smile so I will do/say anything to make her laugh.

Kaia and Cruz are the catalyst for this trip, a daily reminder of this big dream that Parker and I are living with our family. We are incredibly proud to be her parents. A true beauty inside and out, without a doubt, she will do big things in life. We are the luckiest that we get to spend this time with her and experience these special moments together. It was meant to be that we experienced Egypt and the pyramids as a family.

Happy 12th Birthday, Kaia Bella! You are loved.

Mummies, Markets, and the Magnificent Nile River

One of our favorite days in Cairo (besides visiting the pyramids) was visiting the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. It was an absolute delight. It houses the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts in the world, spanning 5,000 years of history. What the museum lacked in modern amenities was made up in the sheer quality and quantity of its content.

There was no air conditioning, it was dusty, the lighting was terrible, and the display cases were smudged with fingerprints. Some items had handwritten descriptions on note cards. Objects were grouped in areas or rooms with many items/rooms were without a description at all.  

At the entrance of one room was a small sign that read: 19th -20th Dynasty / 1,200 BC - 1,000 BC.  That was it, no other descriptions on the items. Basically: "come on in folks, have a look around, there's some really, really old stuff here".  We loved it.

The kids had a wonderful time exploring the museum. We let them take the lead and we went from one ancient artifact to another. The giant statues were impressive. They especially had fun with the hieroglyphics and guessing what they said. One favorite was a large stone that was a thank you note from one King after a victory in battle. We don't know how long it took to carve but I think I read that it took two years to arrive at its destination.

Of course we were all excited to see the mummies. Most mummies on display had no labels but among the collection are the complete burials of Yuya and Thuya, married nobles (King Tuts' great grandparents). Their tomb was robbed but it still contained chests, beds, chairs, a chariot, and many other items.

Another favorite was the treasures of King Tutankhamun (better known as King Tut). There was a surprising amount of gold and other valuable jewels in his display and throughout the museum. We also got to see his sarcophagus and his perfectly crafted gold mask (unfortunately, no photos are allowed in this room).

When we walked through the museum's massive doors, we didn't know what to expect, but it really blew us away. Parker and I followed our kids as they excitedly explored both floors, room by room. Strategically, we stood a little longer at the exhibits that were near the large fans that were scattered throughout the building. We stayed at the museum until the heat became unbearable. 

Cairo is building two new museums, the Grand Egyptian Museum and the National Museum of Egyptian Civilizations. King Tut's treasures and most of the mummies will be relocated to one of these two new buildings. We are lucky that we got to see everything in once place before they get separated. We drove by the Grand Egyptian Museum, which was super fancy and modern, but there was something very special about the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. Its lack of amenities, unassuming presence, and invaluable treasures made it memorable and fun to explore.

*****

Cairo was our kids' first introduction to a developing nation: no traffic rules (at least the rules weren't followed), insufficient infrastructure, and lack of price transparency to name a few. 

Transportation in Cairo is wild to say the least. That's saying a lot since we have previously spent a year traveling in Asia. First of all, be prepared to hear honking from each vehicle EVERY five seconds. 

The honking will begin at about 9am and will not end until 12am. This is not an exaggeration, it is actual insanity. No one bothers to use their side mirrors so it seems that honking is how the drivers communicate: 1) honk... I'm about to pass, 2) honk... I just passed you, now I'm here, 3) honk... no room, better not pass me, 4) honk... I'm turning first, don't even think about it, and 5) honk... I'm pissed because you did not understand my honk's intention.

Now imagine crossing the street in this environment. It was obvious to the locals that we were fresh meat. They helped us cross until we got comfortable crossing ourselves. Pro-tip: make sure the locals are on the oncoming traffic side... ha. One guy went out of his way to safely guide us. He said "My friends, welcome to Egypt, here we close our eyes and open our hearts before we cross". Long story short, you walk straight across all lanes of traffic and pray you don't get ran over. The key is to maintain your pace and the vehicles will anticipate and flow around you. It was terrifying every time.

Tahrir Square is located at City Center, where we were staying. It is a busy center with a traffic circle and a plaza across the street. We landed on a Friday night so everyone was hanging out at the Square. One of our favorite things was watching the roller bladers (teens/young adults) go in and out of traffic, sometimes holding on to the back of bumpers. Roller bladers on the highway! Just another Friday night in Cairo, Egypt.

*****

A lack of price transparency in Egypt means get your bargaining skills ready. No one in Egypt is going to tell you the actual price for anything, because there isn't one. Short of booking accommodations online, everything is up for negotiation. Everything. Also, Egypt has a long tradition of tipping (baksheesh), that can be confusing.

Khan el-Khalili is a famous open-air bazaar in the middle of Cairo. Merchants have been trading there since the 14th century. Now it is jam packed with over 4.000 vendors selling everyday items such as clothing and spices to intricate textiles and semi-precious stone.

Navigating the crowded, narrow walkways of the market was an experience and a first for the kids. Parker sticks out like a sore thumb and prices double when he's around. I just make sure he stays back when I'm trying to buy something!

Kaia wanted a dress so it was a good opportunity to teach the kids how to not totally get ripped off. The first price you are told is probably double the actual number. So just keep that in mind and know that half price is probably local, and if you pay just a bit more than that (but not double) that's fine. We're tourist after all, paying a bit more is OK but not double, triple or more.

When Kaia found the dress she wanted, the vendor said 1,300 Egyptian Pounds. Crazy. Knowing the local price was probably around 250-300 pounds, I was good with paying around 400, so I offered 300. He chose the wrong girl. We haggled for a bit and Kaia walked out with a 400 EP dress.  Not the local price but a fair tourist price. She was happy, the vendor was happy. We still talk about that exchange to this day and how I saved 900 EP.

The tipping culture is long standing, expected, and exhausting. Don't tip too little but don't tip too much, and yes, everyone gets tipped. We wanted to be respectable tourists so in the morning, we went over everyone we might come across that day and how much to tip them. First there are the servers for every meal, then our driver, the guy who opens and closes the building doors, tour guides, hotel people, cleaners... the list goes on and on. Who to tip and how much? So exhausting but I think we did pretty well.

*****

On our last night, we booked a dinner cruise on the Nile River. The kids were tired (we all were) but we couldn't leave without experiencing the Nile River. We didn't look too much into what we booked, it sounded easy and fun with the kids.  The cruise had on-board entertainment including live music, a belly dancer, and traditional folk dancers. It was only a few hours on the ship, but it was special to be cruising on the Nile River, even for a short time.

To keep us as safe as possible, Parker always checks the US Travel Department website for travel advisories before booking flights to the next country, we felt safe while we were in Egypt, but we kept a close eye on the news and our surroundings. To be extra cautious, we kept our visit brief and only stayed five days.  Egypt has always felt so far away. What a dream that we got to experience it together. 

And what a world schooling field trip for the kids!

Recovering and Surfing in Portugal

After 45 days of only walking for transport, we jumped on a bus, caught two different high-speed trains, and finally an uber to a quiet coastal town in northern Portugal. The three hour bus ride hugged the the windy coastline with all of it's twists and turns. Surprisingly, only one of us did not fare well on the bus trip (but she handled it like a champ). 

Instead of breaking up our longer legs of travel over a couple of days, we prefer to tackle it all in one stretch if possible. It made for a long day, over 12 hours of travel. It was dark when we arrived at our apartment, but it was worth it to have nine full days to recover and relax.

It was time to decompress, and you guessed it...not walk. But it wasn't the walking we wanted a break from, we loved the walking. It was a break from packing and unpacking our bags every day that we were looking forward to. And we were also looking forward to sleeping in!

*****

Parker suggested Viana do Castelo because it was not touristy like Porto or Lisbon. Viana do Castelo seemed quiet and inviting, we were in. He found a great apartment by the beach with room for us to unpack and stretch out. The seaside neighborhood of Praia do Cabedelo was separate from the main part of town, we had to take a ferry to get there. So perfect.

As as we got to our apartment and explored the beach area, we all decided we wanted to spend our whole time in Portugal in this little seaside town. Yes, I wanted to see Porto and Lisbon, but we all needed to rest and sometimes exploring one place is the best way to go.

Our little neighborhood had everything we needed: a white sandy beach, a couple of small restaurants, a delicious corner bakery, and a small grocery store. Not having to cook has been a luxury that I, in particular, have relished. However, vegetables were often hard to come by when eating out in Spain and we were all craving greens. Not to mention the decision fatigue with every meal had become exhausting. Parker and I were excited to have a full kitchen and cook our first meals in months. 

*****

Praia do Cabedelo is a half-moon shaped bay with a one kilometer stretch of sandy white beach. It is a haven for water lovers. We were minutes away and during our stay, we experienced various weather conditions for every water sport: surfing, kite surfing, kayaking, swimming, stand-up paddle boarding, etc.here  There was one day with zero wind and the beach was packed of sunbathers.

There was something very interesting we observed about the beaches we visited in Europe (France Spain and Portugal) vs the beaches that we have visited in the US. Even though the beaches in Europe were full of people it was calm and quiet. 

First of all, the Europeans bring next to nothing to the beach: just a towel, maybe a book, and a bucket/shovel for the kids. Unlike some beaches in the states where trucks/SUVs back up on the beach and unload tents, chairs, coolers full of drinks and food, and containers of toys, etc. Even if we can't drive on the beach, we still bring a ridiculous amount of things. And don't forget the competing music on loud speakers. There were hundreds of people on this beach but you could barely hear anyone's conversation. There was no music. Everyone kept to themselves, read, or just soaked in the sun and sea.

Recovering was our main goal but we also came to Portugal to surf. Portugal is known for it's great surf and the kids were excited to learn. Although Parker and I have surfed in Hawaii, New Zealand, and Australia, (which sounds way cooler than our actual abilities), we still consider ourselves beginners.

Nineteen years ago, we took surf lessons on our honeymoon in Maui, Hawaii. We recieved one of those cute tourist certificates for our efforts. Ever since, we look for surf on our travels, and we were excited to share this with the kids. Of course they loved it and were hooked. 

The water was freezing cold (14C/57F). It went against my good senses to get in a wetsuit and join the rest of my family. I am a Pacific Islander through and through, I love warm water and hot weather. After a couple of hours, my feet were frozen and I could barely stand on the board. But we all had a blast. 

The beach breaks were fun and consistent.  Parker pushed the kids onto the surf and taught them how to catch their own waves. They picked up surfing quickly and did not mind the freezing cold water. For the rest of out stay, we scheduled our time around the surf forecast calendar. One day the breaks were overhead and the surf was so good that all the locals also came out to surf. Surfing in Portugal was great practice for the warmer waters of the tropics in a few weeks.

*****

A couple of times we made it out of our little neighborhood and took the ferry to explore Viana do Castelo. Viana do Castelo is on the route of the Portuguese Camino and it was fun spotting the Camino arrows around town. Once you've followed them, you can't un-see them. It's fun being a tourist without carrying everything you need on your back. Our first order of business was to find Kaia new shoes. We went to the mall and wandered aimlessly. 

In our wandering, we discovered the famous pastry of Viana do Castello, the bolas natario. It's a small donut filled with sweet custard topped with cinnamon and sugar: perfection. We loved the change of food in Portugal. It was a welcomed change from eating so much ham and baguettes in Spain. The seafood In Portugal was fresh and delicious. 

Post Camino, it was nice to unpack, spread out our things, lounge, read, write, watch shows, play games, take naps, and sleep in. The only set date we have this year was in October, in the Philippines, to meet my mom and visit my family. We were slowly making our way to the Pacific Islands. But first, we had a very special birthday to celebrate in Egypt.

*****

Portugal was in a severe drought and the country was battling wildfires. Unfortunately, at the end of our stay, the wildfires in Portugal worsened. While we were there, there were 160 active fires. One was 25 minutes away from us. Some roads were closed off until some of the fires were under control. The last couple days on our visit were very smoky and it greatly affected the air quality. It really affected Cruz and we kept our outside time to a minimum. Rain was forecasted the weekend we left and we read that they got some relief from the break in weather. We hope for the best for this wonderful little country.

#9: Finistere: Kaia and Cruz to the End of the World!

40 Days to Santiago

45 Days to Finisterre

534 Miles / 868 Kilometers

*****

They trusted us. We never doubted them. Our kids instinctively understood that this was important for us to do as a family. They never said no. They never said they didn't want to do it. In fact, they didn't want it to end. Our fearless kids fell in step and walked every single mile across the entire country of Spain!

St. Jean Pied de Port, France to Finisterre, Spain

*****

 A few minutes into our walk to Finisterre, Parker and I knew we had all made the right decision to continue beyond Santiago de Compostela. Only 1% of pilgrims carry on to the end of the world (Finesterre in Latin is end of the earth). This route is unique in that it is the only Camino that starts in Santiago. Pagans once believed that the sun died at the edge of the world and made offerings along Costa da Morte (Coast of Death).

The last week of walking to Santiago was too hectic for reflection. But it was time to let go for a few days. We had to pause in making plans for the future so we could live in the moment and enjoy the final days of our walk.

*****

It was overcast and cool. As we walked out of Santiago, we walked through enchanted Eucalyptus forest, beautiful countryside, and medieval villages. Once again, it was just the four of us (for the most part). The Pilgrims we did meet were from one of five major routes to Santiago, not just the French Route. It was great to meet new people and hear new stories. Nele was our only close Camino friend who was also walking to the ocean. We enjoyed the company when we ran into her throughout the next four days.

As we walked through the changing landscape of dense forest to rolling open farmland, we felt the change in the air as we neared the ocean. Our days were easy and breezy. On day three, we caught our first glimpse of the ocean on the way to the little seaside town of Cee. Our legs were strong and our steps felt light in anticipation of our arrival at Finisterre.

*****

Walking the coastline on our last day was refreshing. Once you arrive at Finisterre, the end point is actually another 3km away. The walk from Finisterre proper to the light house is very popular. Once again, there were a lot of day walkers and bus groups doing the last 3km. We breezed by everyone and made the easy walk to our last mile marker. The ocean was completely calm. It was over cast and cool, not a ripple on the water. After an obligatory photo at 0.0km mile marker, we walked to the rocks at the edge of the world. We made it. They did it!

 

Before sunset, we met Nele and a few other pilgrims who were also gathered at the beach. One had walked from his home in Germany. Others had started in various cities along the way.  Everyone was thrilled to see the kids and were genuinely happy to see that "The Family" had completed the entire French Camino. We cheered the end of our Caminos, and together we watched the sun die at the Coast of Death. We didn't leave an offering, but we left with endless gratitude. It was a fitting end to our journey.

*****

Parker and I are so incredibly proud of Kaia and Cruz for their massive effort and positive attitude. Sure, there were a few moments of frustration throughout the last 45 days. Between every memorable moment, scenic photograph, and entertaining anecdote were the hundreds and hundreds of miles that they walked. They worked through it all and kept moving forward.

One of the things we're most proud of is that the kids inspired so many people we met along the way. On the Camino. we were known as "The Family".  The first week of our walk, a man caught up to us and we began chatting as we walked. He said, that he had heard about us, "The Family", from the nuns at Zabaldika Albergue.  He has an eight year old daughter and was very interested about our Camino. He said he wasn't sure if his daughter could do the Camino at such a young age.  But after seeing our kids and hearing our story, he said, that he will bring his daughter with him next year. We heard this over and over again from countless pilgrims. Many shared that after meeting us, they would love to do the walk with their kids or and grandkids someday.

One of Our Pilgrim Passports with 72 Stamps (1-2 stamps a day from France).

There are endless reasons that we wanted to begin our trip with this walk. We wanted to share with them the joys and benefits of long distance walking. We wanted to explore a new culture together as a family, speak a new language, meet new people, and try new food. We also wanted to teach them how to regulate their emotions and their bodies. This was about learning how to communicate clearly and effectively.  This was about perseverance and tenacity.

It's one thing to hope for all of these things but to actually see them grow stronger and more confidant every day was incredible. There are no words to fully express the true joy in witnessing our kids flourish and thrive before our eyes.

The Camino is the easiest walk physically and logistically that Parker and I have ever done. We've walked a ridiculous amount of miles pre-kids (thousands of miles and probably more than a year of our lives) mostly carrying all of our food and shelter. However, the challenge on this walk was obviously keeping our kids alive and healthy all while, hopefully, also having fun. We would be lying if we did not share that although the walk was not difficult for the two of us, it was a relief that we got our kids to the end in one piece. It was the perfect amount of time and miles for our family's first long-distance walk.

The biggest blessing we received from our Camino was our time together as a family. The last couple of days, we discussed our journey through Spain: the good and bad, the highs and lows. We were all happy with everything we had seen and done. Finally, we all felt ready for our walk to end and for our next adventure to begin.  The Camino truly brought us together and will always be part of our family story.

It was our first Camino, but it will not be our last. Buen Camino!

*****

Kaia and Cruz, 

Your dad and I hope you will look back with fond memories on our walk to Santiago de Compostela (and beyond). We continue this blog to record some of this journey for you.  

You have inspired so many of our friends and family who are following us on our journey, as well as many others we met throughout Spain. 

We hope you never forget that although this was a wonderful accomplishment as a family, you each made it to the end of the world with your own effort. We are impressed by your resiliency and tenacity. You are legends in our eyes!

All our Love, Mom and Dad

#8: The Stomach Bug vs The Richardsons: Will They Make it?

Sarria to Santiago: 69 miles/112Kms, 5 Days

(Sarria, Portomarin, Palas de Rei, Melide, O Pedruzo, Santigo)

Santiago de Compostela

Of course we made it to Santiago!  But first, we all had to overcome a stomach bug, Parker had to continue battling his blisters, and Kaia's shoes were on their last thread. We even discussed pausing our walk for a bit, but we ultimately decided to take it one step at a time, one day at a time. We completed our pilgrimage in 40 days, 20 days quicker than Parker and I had planned!

*****

Located on the last 112kms from Santiago de Compostela is the town Sarria. Only ten percent of the pilgrims who walk the French Route begin where we did, in St. Jean Pied de Port (483 miles/778kms away). Ninety percent begin in Sarria. To get the Compostela Certificate, you only have to walk at least 100kms(62miles). That is why Sarria is so popular. Thousands of new pilgrims joined us out of Sarria.

However..... the night before Sarria, Cruz woke up in the middle of the night and threw up (off the top bunk of course). This part of Spain is famous for its pulpo (octopus). I love octopus and ordered it the night before (Cruz and Parker also tried it). But, it didn't look right, it reminded us of Parker's pig tail lunch. I'm sure it was prepared correctly, but I couldn't eat it. So maybe it was the pulpo? We knew of a few pilgrims who didn't feel well the previous days. So maybe something was going around. People were saying maybe it was contaminated water? Or could it have been the inconsistent standards of the cafes/restaurants along the Camino? It's hard to say.  Kaia and I caught the 48 hour stomach bug the following day in Portomarin, and Parker didn't feel so great either but didn't have the vomiting.

*****

In addition to the whole family fighting the stomach bug, Parker was still going through his blister saga. The kids decided we will do a side slideshow of the evolution of his blisters. It was epic: blisters inside blisters, and layers under layers of his baby pinky toes. Poor little piggys. He was managing them well but it still made us nervous. Many pilgrims had to end their walks early because of blisters. We had met someone who's blister got infected and he had to go to the hospital. Someone else got sick and also had to got to the hospital.  Both had to end their walks. You can only imagine the endless stories of blisters, black toe nails, lost toe nails, and all the ailments from head to toe. It was one of the ways we all bonded at the end of our days of walking.

Another situation we were dealing with was Kaia's trail shoes. The thread was still good but the uppers were falling apart. Getting new shoes this far into our walk was risky. New shoes with the mileage we were cranking out daily insured blisters. She's the only one who hasn't had a single blister or any foot issues. Getting blisters now could slow down or end our walk. She tried duck tape but that only lasted a day. We crossed our fingers that the shoes would make it all the way to the end.

*****

Out of Sarria, we were joined by thousands of people along the Camino.  It sometimes felt like we were in a 100km  line to Santiago. Before this, we might only see 20 or so pilgrims throughout the day, sometimes less. One day on the Meseta, we only saw two others. Now there were tons of groups: some were groups of 20 with a guide, there were large school groups, church groups, and big families walking together. There were long lines for cafes, shops, stamps along the side of the road. Some people talked loudly on their phones, on speaker! Why?! Some groups blared music from blue tooth speakers. The solitude was gone.

*****

In the rain, we walked out of Portomarin with upset stomachs and zero sleep, due to a fiesta that started at 11pm the previous night. It was a tough night for all of us but there was no way we were staying in that godforsaken town another minute. We all decided to walk and find somewhere else to rest for the day.

This was the first rain of our walk, our 36th day. We walked with hordes of people in ponchos of all colors. We were one of many pilgrim zombies, zombie-grinos, that what our kids called us all (zombies + peregrinos). It was a rough morning.  My legs felt H.E.A.V.Y. It took a lot of effort to just move them forward. But we all kept going. I guess one bad day out of 36 days isn't terrible. The Camino felt different with so many new people. There was less comradery because everyone had their own group. Less "Buen Caminos" and discussions with random pilgrims throughout the day. 

Once we reached Palas de Rei, Parker and I discussed pausing our walk. We told the kids that it's health first and reaching Santiago is secondary. We knew we would make it soon enough, we were so close.  Everyone needed rest and plenty of hydration. The next day, even though we were all feeling better, we walked a short half day to Melide. We found a hotel by 10:30am. Then we hydrated, ate, and relaxed.

=

As Parker and I sat outside the cafe below our hotel, we could hear a group of loud pilgrims approaching. They were our friends. We were all so happy to see each other. Everyone was concerned about our kids and were happy to see they were better. It cheered us all up.

The following morning, we all felt great! We had thought we might have to finish a day later than originally planned but we decided to see how the day went. It was the most perfect day for walking. It was flat. easy, and beautiful. We decided to walk a long day 35kms to Pedruzo because we were all ready to finish the following day. 

*****

The big day finally arrived. We were all back to 100%, Parker's blisters were behaving, and Kaia's shoes were a mess but still intact. There was a lot of excitement in the air. So many of us (thousands) started in the dark in anticipation of reaching Santiago. It was hard to believe that we only had 11 miles left. Even though the crowd was an adjustment, it was great to see the excitement on everyone's face, no matter if they walked for five days and 100kms, or 30+ days and 700kms.

About 3miles/5kms out, we could see city of Santiago de Compostela and we caught a glimpse of the cathedral. It was surreal to be dodging traffic and finding our way through the busy city. As we approached the Cathedral, we walked through a tall walkway as a bagpiper welcomed pilgrims from around the world. When we approached the square it was hard to believe that we finally reached our destination. We celebrated with friends at the Cathedral Square. 

*****

The following day, we attended the pilgrim mass at the cathedral with Brother Lucas as one of the celebrants. A special pilgrim mass is held every day to welcome all the pilgrims and to honor them after their Camino. The priest reads the number of pilgrims received in the last 24 hours, where they came from, and where they began their pilgrimage.

We were lucky that day to witness the botafumeiro during mass. The famous botafumeiro is a giant censer. Once it is filled with incense and coal, it weighs well over 100 lbs. It takes eight people to operate. It is suspended 65 feet in the air and can reach a speed of 42 miles per hour. Originally, it was used to purify the air when the church was full of stinky pilgrims who had traveled from their homes.  Now it is more of a ritual that began in the 12th century. The mass was a meaningful way to end  our pilgrimage. 

*****

On our last week to Santiago, it was difficult to mentally end our walk. There was too much going on: the stomach bug, epic blisters, failing shoes, and the hordes of new people. Parker and I were also starting to plan our next stages of travel (Portugal, Egypt, Philippines). It was all too distracting and we were not living in the moment.

I was ambivalent once we arrived in Santiago. The end is always hard to process in the moment but Santiago did not feel like the end for me.  The pilgrimage officially ends in Santiago de Compostela, but long before Christianity, people would walk to the end of the world as they knew it, to the ocean. Parker and I had always dreamed of going all the way to the water.

Finestere was another 54 miles/90 kms away. The kids knew about it and had been saying they wanted to go to the Ocean. We let them make the final decision because walking the 483miles/778kms to Santiago was already a lot to ask of our kids.

But as we were planning our last two weeks, they both said they loved  the Camino and did not want it to end! Once in Santiago, we gave them the last say, especially with the challenging week we just conquered. Cruz said he wanted to keep walking.  Kaia said she wanted to walk all the way across Spain! They had just walked 483 miles/778 kms like rockstars and wanted to keep going. 

This was the best thing Parker and I could have heard as parents. Not just that they wanted to keep going but that they loved the camino as much as we hoped they would. 

Just another 54 miles/90 kms to go to the end of the world.

#7: Leon to Sarria: Hairy Pigtails, Burdens, and Rainbows

Leon to Saria: 128 miles/206 kms, 

(San Martin, Astorga, Foncebadon, Ponferada, Villafranca, O'Cebriero, Triacastela, Sarria)

As we explored the city of Leon, Parker asked me why I had such a big smile on my face. I had no idea I was smiling but how could I not? As we rounded the corner, I gasped when I saw the Cathedral for the first time. It was stunning and it took my breath away. Leon is a striking mix of Roman and modern. Founded in the 1st century B.C., the city has gorgeous buildings intertwined with cafes and shops. Well dressed tourist were bustling about with a few wandering pilgrims mingled in (easy to spot with a backpack, a walking stick, and a wide brim hat).   We did our tourist thing for a couple of day, enjoyed our three bedroom apartment,  and of course we found more tapas. We love tapas. 

*****

Photos do not do this hairy pig tail justice.

Out of Leon, we had a memorable lunch at Villadangos. Parker ordered Pig Tail (Rabo De Cerdo), not sure what he had in mind, but he got a plate of chopped up pig tail that looked undercooked and was still hairy. We were trying to be respectful because it was probably a delicacy. But we could not stop laughing (silently, ha). I am usually the worst at ordering, since I somehow always order the most ridiculous thing on the menu. But this one took the cake. The kids still talk about the hairy pig tail.

The first place we saw at or destination for the evening, San Martin, had a pool. The kids were excited so we got a room there. They did not hesitate to jump into the cold pool while I wrote in my journal and Parker sewed on patches. He had started sewing the kid's patches on their backpacks a couple of weeks back. He had many to sew: the US, UK, France , and Spain. And since they have already walked hundreds of kms on the Camino, they earned a Camino patch for sure. His sewing skills come in handy at home and on the read. Good job dad!

The mornings started getting colder. We all wore pants for the first time. We welcomed the change in weather. Out of St. Martin, we passed by, you guess it, a medival village, that had the best preserved arch bridge in Spain. It hosted joisting tournament from back in the day, you know, the 13th century.

To our surprise, we saw Eva from New Zealand (from day one) at San Martin. We had not seen her since our first week out of France. The kids were happy to see her again. We caught up with her for a bit.  One of our favorite things about our walk is the people we pass or who pass us throughout our day.  Sometimes it's a quick: hello, how are you, where are you from, where did you start, where are you going? If we have already met them, we sometimes walk in stride for a hour or longer and talk for a couple of hours, all the while walking towards our destination for the day. It's a very special thing on the Camino to get to meet people in this way, one-on-one time with kindred spirits. Pilgrims especially  enjoy chatting with our kids and asking them about their day and experience.

*****

The Iron Cross is one of the important landmarks on the French Camino. It is a small cross on top of a pillar. For hundreds of years, pilgrims had offered a rock they have carried from their home or picked up somewhere on the route. Once at the cross, the rock is placed to represent the burdens you are currently carrying in life.

Our kids knew of the iron cross. Kaia carried a rock from France and Cruz had found a tiny rock with a painted yellow arrow in San Juan de Ortega. They added their rock to the massive pile. Parker and I took a moment to place our rocks and reflect on the burdens we wished to leave behind. We have had some challenges to over come the past few years. It was a brief but meaningful moment to us.

It was a beautiful morning as we timed our arrival with the sunrise. We looked up as our kids placed their rocks on the massive pile. They are too young to understand now, but we know that struggles and challenges in life cannot be avoided. This walk/trip is a leap of faith to bond our family. As they go through life with their burdens, we hope they know we are always there for them and they do not have to carry their burdens alone. We also hope that this trip will foster their lifelong relationship and that they will always be there for each other.

*****

One of our favorite things on our walk is discovering a village with a river swimming area. Villafranca had one of these swimming holes. As soon as we were checked-in at our place, we put on our bathing suits and walked to the spot where the locals and the pilgrims hang out. It was the Barton Springs of northern Spain. Cruz challenged Frank to a swim race while the rest of us (Nele, Jade, Ana, Johnny, Parker, and a few new friends we met on this stretch) soaked our tired feet in the cold water and enjoyed the sun. 

*****

It was time to leave the Meseta to make our way up to Galicia.  We showed the kids our options: 1) walk a flat 25kms and then climb 5kms to O'Cebrero, 2) walk the 25 kms today, then the 5kms climb in the morning (but in the dark). They decided they wanted to do it all in one day. We saw Nele and Brother Lucas throughout the day, we enjoyed cold drinks in the cafes as we prepared for the next 5kms or so to the next village. As we climbed up and saw our progress, it was rewarding to look back and see the 100s of kilometers we had walked as far as we could see. Our kids walked their second longest day, with a huge climb at the end, without hesitation. On top of the mountain, there was a man playing bagpipes as we approached the top. Great end to our big day.

On our way to mass that evening (which Brother Lucas was one of the celebrants), Cruz and I saw a double rainbow! Double Rainbow! The next day was the last day on the path until we hit the busiest part of the French Camino. We saw our friends in town and hoped we would not lose them in the crowds on our last stretch. It was time to make our way down to our final leg of our walk, the last 69 miles/112kms. Thousands of new pilgrims were about to join us on our last week.