Looking back at the Pyrenees was special. We also welcomed walking on flat farm land. It was great to tell the kids that they climbed over those beautiful mountains. Anything was easier after our first two days. We met a few hikers who started out that morning from Roncesvalles because the Pyrenees were too intimidating. They were impressed that our kids did it. Knowing this gave Kaia and Cruz a lot of confidence.
We walked 14 miles on day three to Zubiri. The trail/roads were less difficult and the kids were feeling good. They were also motivated knowing that there was a river that ran through the town where they could play. We found a room with a balcony next to the river. As soon as we dropped off our bags, the kids put on their bathing suits and got in the water. Their energy is endless. While they were playing, a few of the local women placed chairs in the water to enjoy a beverage.
Zubiri is a small town so we ran into almost everyone we had met the past few days. They were all so happy to see the kids. We met many people from Italy, France, Germany, and Spain. We also met Mike and Chris from Philly. They were on a break before going back to Monastery School.
*****
Day four was a short walk seven mile walk to an albergue ran by nuns in Zabaldika. This albergue retains the original spirit of the Camino, when the church welcomed pilgrims and gave them refuge for the evening and food. Today, it is by donation. There were 18 of us that evening. Kaia and I helped make dinner. We went to a short mass and the kids got to ring a bell that was over one thousand years old. We met a mom originally from Spain but now lives in Australia. She was walking for a couple of weeks with her adult children. We also met a newly engaged couple from London, a doctor from Germany, and a young lady from Taiwan. It was a lively shared dinner.
*****
On day five, we walked another short seven miles into the medieval city of Pamplona. It is known for it's festival, the Running of the Bulls. Once a week we planned on staying two nights in a bigger town to rest and explore the city.
Parker found a great apartment with a balcony that is on the route for running with the bulls. We had the perfect view of "Dead Man's Corner", yikes! It was great for people watching. Pamplona is surrounded by a 3 mile/5 km wall to keep away invaders. Today it is a vibrant mix of medieval and modern. We are adjusting to the Spanish siesta schedule. It is not law enforced but almost everyone follows it. Siesta is commonly between 2pm to 5pm, when everything closes (grocery stores, restaurants, businesses, etc.). If a cafe or restaurant is open, it is a limited menu. You pick up on this quickly because you have to grab something to eat before 2pm or wait until after 6/7 when everything gets going again. Then the Spanish stay up all night. The streets were packed and we heard people hanging out until 3/4am.
We discovered Calle San Nicolas (San Nicholas Street), the origin of tapas/pintxos. A pintxo is a small bite usually served on a piece of bread. It is a culinary delight for only a euro or two.
It's all an experience, the tapas are displayed behind a glass barrier, you point at a few, order your drink, then try to find an open cocktail table. You repeat this from place to place until you can no longer stuff your face even the tiniest bite. We walked into a Michelin Star Restaurant and had the "Crooooctopus" which was a kid favorite. We went back to Nicholas Street several times. We loved Pamplona.
*****
Someone asked how we keep the kids from getting bored. I told them, on this stretch, it's wolverine. Somehow my family is still talking about wolverine! It was a full on conversation the first four days, it was less on the fifth day when they dabbled just a bit into Marvel. For the past decade I've heard... mom, mom, mom, mom, hey mommy….a hundred times a day. Now I'm hearing dad, dad, dad, dad, hey daddy…all day. Mostly from Cruz, even when they are side by side and often holding hands when talking. Hey dad, where does his claws come from, do they hurt...on and on. Parker answers all of their questions, and discusses theories endlessly with them. I am happy and can’t help but smile as I listening to them. It’s a gift to have all the time in the world to discuss super heroes and continuity errors with our children.
Parker and I were thrilled about our first five days of walking. Beginning in St. Jean Pied de Port is difficult for every pilgrim, not to mention for a nine and eleven year old. We see their confidence grow every day. We are amazed by them. Our kids are strong and adventurous. We are all confident in the challenge ahead.
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