Leon to Saria: 128 miles/206 kms,
(San Martin, Astorga, Foncebadon, Ponferada, Villafranca, O'Cebriero, Triacastela, Sarria)
As we explored the city of Leon, Parker asked me why I had such a big smile on my face. I had no idea I was smiling but how could I not? As we rounded the corner, I gasped when I saw the Cathedral for the first time. It was stunning and it took my breath away. Leon is a striking mix of Roman and modern. Founded in the 1st century B.C., the city has gorgeous buildings intertwined with cafes and shops. Well dressed tourist were bustling about with a few wandering pilgrims mingled in (easy to spot with a backpack, a walking stick, and a wide brim hat). We did our tourist thing for a couple of day, enjoyed our three bedroom apartment, and of course we found more tapas. We love tapas.
*****
Out of Leon, we had a memorable lunch at Villadangos. Parker ordered Pig Tail (Rabo De Cerdo), not sure what he had in mind, but he got a plate of chopped up pig tail that looked undercooked and was still hairy. We were trying to be respectful because it was probably a delicacy. But we could not stop laughing (silently, ha). I am usually the worst at ordering, since I somehow always order the most ridiculous thing on the menu. But this one took the cake. The kids still talk about the hairy pig tail.
The first place we saw at or destination for the evening, San Martin, had a pool. The kids were excited so we got a room there. They did not hesitate to jump into the cold pool while I wrote in my journal and Parker sewed on patches. He had started sewing the kid's patches on their backpacks a couple of weeks back. He had many to sew: the US, UK, France , and Spain. And since they have already walked hundreds of kms on the Camino, they earned a Camino patch for sure. His sewing skills come in handy at home and on the read. Good job dad!
The mornings started getting colder. We all wore pants for the first time. We welcomed the change in weather. Out of St. Martin, we passed by, you guess it, a medival village, that had the best preserved arch bridge in Spain. It hosted joisting tournament from back in the day, you know, the 13th century.
To our surprise, we saw Eva from New Zealand (from day one) at San Martin. We had not seen her since our first week out of France. The kids were happy to see her again. We caught up with her for a bit. One of our favorite things about our walk is the people we pass or who pass us throughout our day. Sometimes it's a quick: hello, how are you, where are you from, where did you start, where are you going? If we have already met them, we sometimes walk in stride for a hour or longer and talk for a couple of hours, all the while walking towards our destination for the day. It's a very special thing on the Camino to get to meet people in this way, one-on-one time with kindred spirits. Pilgrims especially enjoy chatting with our kids and asking them about their day and experience.
*****
 |
The Iron Cross is one of the important landmarks on the French Camino. It is a small cross on top of a pillar. For hundreds of years, pilgrims had offered a rock they have carried from their home or picked up somewhere on the route. Once at the cross, the rock is placed to represent the burdens you are currently carrying in life.
Our kids knew of the iron cross. Kaia carried a rock from France and Cruz had found a tiny rock with a painted yellow arrow in San Juan de Ortega. They added their rock to the massive pile. Parker and I took a moment to place our rocks and reflect on the burdens we wished to leave behind. We have had some challenges to over come the past few years. It was a brief but meaningful moment to us.
It was a beautiful morning as we timed our arrival with the sunrise. We looked up as our kids placed their rocks on the massive pile. They are too young to understand now, but we know that struggles and challenges in life cannot be avoided. This walk/trip is a leap of faith to bond our family. As they go through life with their burdens, we hope they know we are always there for them and they do not have to carry their burdens alone. We also hope that this trip will foster their lifelong relationship and that they will always be there for each other.
*****
One of our favorite things on our walk is discovering a village with a river swimming area. Villafranca had one of these swimming holes. As soon as we were checked-in at our place, we put on our bathing suits and walked to the spot where the locals and the pilgrims hang out. It was the Barton Springs of northern Spain. Cruz challenged Frank to a swim race while the rest of us (Nele, Jade, Ana, Johnny, Parker, and a few new friends we met on this stretch) soaked our tired feet in the cold water and enjoyed the sun.
*****
It was time to leave the Meseta to make our way up to Galicia. We showed the kids our options: 1) walk a flat 25kms and then climb 5kms to O'Cebrero, 2) walk the 25 kms today, then the 5kms climb in the morning (but in the dark). They decided they wanted to do it all in one day. We saw Nele and Brother Lucas throughout the day, we enjoyed cold drinks in the cafes as we prepared for the next 5kms or so to the next village. As we climbed up and saw our progress, it was rewarding to look back and see the 100s of kilometers we had walked as far as we could see. Our kids walked their second longest day, with a huge climb at the end, without hesitation. On top of the mountain, there was a man playing bagpipes as we approached the top. Great end to our big day.
On our way to mass that evening (which Brother Lucas was one of the celebrants), Cruz and I saw a double rainbow! Double Rainbow! The next day was the last day on the path until we hit the busiest part of the French Camino. We saw our friends in town and hoped we would not lose them in the crowds on our last stretch. It was time to make our way down to our final leg of our walk, the last 69 miles/112kms. Thousands of new pilgrims were about to join us on our last week.
No comments:
Post a Comment