#9: Finistere: Kaia and Cruz to the End of the World!

40 Days to Santiago

45 Days to Finisterre

534 Miles / 868 Kilometers

*****

They trusted us. We never doubted them. Our kids instinctively understood that this was important for us to do as a family. They never said no. They never said they didn't want to do it. In fact, they didn't want it to end. Our fearless kids fell in step and walked every single mile across the entire country of Spain!

St. Jean Pied de Port, France to Finisterre, Spain

*****

 A few minutes into our walk to Finisterre, Parker and I knew we had all made the right decision to continue beyond Santiago de Compostela. Only 1% of pilgrims carry on to the end of the world (Finesterre in Latin is end of the earth). This route is unique in that it is the only Camino that starts in Santiago. Pagans once believed that the sun died at the edge of the world and made offerings along Costa da Morte (Coast of Death).

The last week of walking to Santiago was too hectic for reflection. But it was time to let go for a few days. We had to pause in making plans for the future so we could live in the moment and enjoy the final days of our walk.

*****

It was overcast and cool. As we walked out of Santiago, we walked through enchanted Eucalyptus forest, beautiful countryside, and medieval villages. Once again, it was just the four of us (for the most part). The Pilgrims we did meet were from one of five major routes to Santiago, not just the French Route. It was great to meet new people and hear new stories. Nele was our only close Camino friend who was also walking to the ocean. We enjoyed the company when we ran into her throughout the next four days.

As we walked through the changing landscape of dense forest to rolling open farmland, we felt the change in the air as we neared the ocean. Our days were easy and breezy. On day three, we caught our first glimpse of the ocean on the way to the little seaside town of Cee. Our legs were strong and our steps felt light in anticipation of our arrival at Finisterre.

*****

Walking the coastline on our last day was refreshing. Once you arrive at Finisterre, the end point is actually another 3km away. The walk from Finisterre proper to the light house is very popular. Once again, there were a lot of day walkers and bus groups doing the last 3km. We breezed by everyone and made the easy walk to our last mile marker. The ocean was completely calm. It was over cast and cool, not a ripple on the water. After an obligatory photo at 0.0km mile marker, we walked to the rocks at the edge of the world. We made it. They did it!

 

Before sunset, we met Nele and a few other pilgrims who were also gathered at the beach. One had walked from his home in Germany. Others had started in various cities along the way.  Everyone was thrilled to see the kids and were genuinely happy to see that "The Family" had completed the entire French Camino. We cheered the end of our Caminos, and together we watched the sun die at the Coast of Death. We didn't leave an offering, but we left with endless gratitude. It was a fitting end to our journey.

*****

Parker and I are so incredibly proud of Kaia and Cruz for their massive effort and positive attitude. Sure, there were a few moments of frustration throughout the last 45 days. Between every memorable moment, scenic photograph, and entertaining anecdote were the hundreds and hundreds of miles that they walked. They worked through it all and kept moving forward.

One of the things we're most proud of is that the kids inspired so many people we met along the way. On the Camino. we were known as "The Family".  The first week of our walk, a man caught up to us and we began chatting as we walked. He said, that he had heard about us, "The Family", from the nuns at Zabaldika Albergue.  He has an eight year old daughter and was very interested about our Camino. He said he wasn't sure if his daughter could do the Camino at such a young age.  But after seeing our kids and hearing our story, he said, that he will bring his daughter with him next year. We heard this over and over again from countless pilgrims. Many shared that after meeting us, they would love to do the walk with their kids or and grandkids someday.

One of Our Pilgrim Passports with 72 Stamps (1-2 stamps a day from France).

There are endless reasons that we wanted to begin our trip with this walk. We wanted to share with them the joys and benefits of long distance walking. We wanted to explore a new culture together as a family, speak a new language, meet new people, and try new food. We also wanted to teach them how to regulate their emotions and their bodies. This was about learning how to communicate clearly and effectively.  This was about perseverance and tenacity.

It's one thing to hope for all of these things but to actually see them grow stronger and more confidant every day was incredible. There are no words to fully express the true joy in witnessing our kids flourish and thrive before our eyes.

The Camino is the easiest walk physically and logistically that Parker and I have ever done. We've walked a ridiculous amount of miles pre-kids (thousands of miles and probably more than a year of our lives) mostly carrying all of our food and shelter. However, the challenge on this walk was obviously keeping our kids alive and healthy all while, hopefully, also having fun. We would be lying if we did not share that although the walk was not difficult for the two of us, it was a relief that we got our kids to the end in one piece. It was the perfect amount of time and miles for our family's first long-distance walk.

The biggest blessing we received from our Camino was our time together as a family. The last couple of days, we discussed our journey through Spain: the good and bad, the highs and lows. We were all happy with everything we had seen and done. Finally, we all felt ready for our walk to end and for our next adventure to begin.  The Camino truly brought us together and will always be part of our family story.

It was our first Camino, but it will not be our last. Buen Camino!

*****

Kaia and Cruz, 

Your dad and I hope you will look back with fond memories on our walk to Santiago de Compostela (and beyond). We continue this blog to record some of this journey for you.  

You have inspired so many of our friends and family who are following us on our journey, as well as many others we met throughout Spain. 

We hope you never forget that although this was a wonderful accomplishment as a family, you each made it to the end of the world with your own effort. We are impressed by your resiliency and tenacity. You are legends in our eyes!

All our Love, Mom and Dad

#8: The Stomach Bug vs The Richardsons: Will They Make it?

Sarria to Santiago: 69 miles/112Kms, 5 Days

(Sarria, Portomarin, Palas de Rei, Melide, O Pedruzo, Santigo)

Santiago de Compostela

Of course we made it to Santiago!  But first, we all had to overcome a stomach bug, Parker had to continue battling his blisters, and Kaia's shoes were on their last thread. We even discussed pausing our walk for a bit, but we ultimately decided to take it one step at a time, one day at a time. We completed our pilgrimage in 40 days, 20 days quicker than Parker and I had planned!

*****

Located on the last 112kms from Santiago de Compostela is the town Sarria. Only ten percent of the pilgrims who walk the French Route begin where we did, in St. Jean Pied de Port (483 miles/778kms away). Ninety percent begin in Sarria. To get the Compostela Certificate, you only have to walk at least 100kms(62miles). That is why Sarria is so popular. Thousands of new pilgrims joined us out of Sarria.

However..... the night before Sarria, Cruz woke up in the middle of the night and threw up (off the top bunk of course). This part of Spain is famous for its pulpo (octopus). I love octopus and ordered it the night before (Cruz and Parker also tried it). But, it didn't look right, it reminded us of Parker's pig tail lunch. I'm sure it was prepared correctly, but I couldn't eat it. So maybe it was the pulpo? We knew of a few pilgrims who didn't feel well the previous days. So maybe something was going around. People were saying maybe it was contaminated water? Or could it have been the inconsistent standards of the cafes/restaurants along the Camino? It's hard to say.  Kaia and I caught the 48 hour stomach bug the following day in Portomarin, and Parker didn't feel so great either but didn't have the vomiting.

*****

In addition to the whole family fighting the stomach bug, Parker was still going through his blister saga. The kids decided we will do a side slideshow of the evolution of his blisters. It was epic: blisters inside blisters, and layers under layers of his baby pinky toes. Poor little piggys. He was managing them well but it still made us nervous. Many pilgrims had to end their walks early because of blisters. We had met someone who's blister got infected and he had to go to the hospital. Someone else got sick and also had to got to the hospital.  Both had to end their walks. You can only imagine the endless stories of blisters, black toe nails, lost toe nails, and all the ailments from head to toe. It was one of the ways we all bonded at the end of our days of walking.

Another situation we were dealing with was Kaia's trail shoes. The thread was still good but the uppers were falling apart. Getting new shoes this far into our walk was risky. New shoes with the mileage we were cranking out daily insured blisters. She's the only one who hasn't had a single blister or any foot issues. Getting blisters now could slow down or end our walk. She tried duck tape but that only lasted a day. We crossed our fingers that the shoes would make it all the way to the end.

*****

Out of Sarria, we were joined by thousands of people along the Camino.  It sometimes felt like we were in a 100km  line to Santiago. Before this, we might only see 20 or so pilgrims throughout the day, sometimes less. One day on the Meseta, we only saw two others. Now there were tons of groups: some were groups of 20 with a guide, there were large school groups, church groups, and big families walking together. There were long lines for cafes, shops, stamps along the side of the road. Some people talked loudly on their phones, on speaker! Why?! Some groups blared music from blue tooth speakers. The solitude was gone.

*****

In the rain, we walked out of Portomarin with upset stomachs and zero sleep, due to a fiesta that started at 11pm the previous night. It was a tough night for all of us but there was no way we were staying in that godforsaken town another minute. We all decided to walk and find somewhere else to rest for the day.

This was the first rain of our walk, our 36th day. We walked with hordes of people in ponchos of all colors. We were one of many pilgrim zombies, zombie-grinos, that what our kids called us all (zombies + peregrinos). It was a rough morning.  My legs felt H.E.A.V.Y. It took a lot of effort to just move them forward. But we all kept going. I guess one bad day out of 36 days isn't terrible. The Camino felt different with so many new people. There was less comradery because everyone had their own group. Less "Buen Caminos" and discussions with random pilgrims throughout the day. 

Once we reached Palas de Rei, Parker and I discussed pausing our walk. We told the kids that it's health first and reaching Santiago is secondary. We knew we would make it soon enough, we were so close.  Everyone needed rest and plenty of hydration. The next day, even though we were all feeling better, we walked a short half day to Melide. We found a hotel by 10:30am. Then we hydrated, ate, and relaxed.

=

As Parker and I sat outside the cafe below our hotel, we could hear a group of loud pilgrims approaching. They were our friends. We were all so happy to see each other. Everyone was concerned about our kids and were happy to see they were better. It cheered us all up.

The following morning, we all felt great! We had thought we might have to finish a day later than originally planned but we decided to see how the day went. It was the most perfect day for walking. It was flat. easy, and beautiful. We decided to walk a long day 35kms to Pedruzo because we were all ready to finish the following day. 

*****

The big day finally arrived. We were all back to 100%, Parker's blisters were behaving, and Kaia's shoes were a mess but still intact. There was a lot of excitement in the air. So many of us (thousands) started in the dark in anticipation of reaching Santiago. It was hard to believe that we only had 11 miles left. Even though the crowd was an adjustment, it was great to see the excitement on everyone's face, no matter if they walked for five days and 100kms, or 30+ days and 700kms.

About 3miles/5kms out, we could see city of Santiago de Compostela and we caught a glimpse of the cathedral. It was surreal to be dodging traffic and finding our way through the busy city. As we approached the Cathedral, we walked through a tall walkway as a bagpiper welcomed pilgrims from around the world. When we approached the square it was hard to believe that we finally reached our destination. We celebrated with friends at the Cathedral Square. 

*****

The following day, we attended the pilgrim mass at the cathedral with Brother Lucas as one of the celebrants. A special pilgrim mass is held every day to welcome all the pilgrims and to honor them after their Camino. The priest reads the number of pilgrims received in the last 24 hours, where they came from, and where they began their pilgrimage.

We were lucky that day to witness the botafumeiro during mass. The famous botafumeiro is a giant censer. Once it is filled with incense and coal, it weighs well over 100 lbs. It takes eight people to operate. It is suspended 65 feet in the air and can reach a speed of 42 miles per hour. Originally, it was used to purify the air when the church was full of stinky pilgrims who had traveled from their homes.  Now it is more of a ritual that began in the 12th century. The mass was a meaningful way to end  our pilgrimage. 

*****

On our last week to Santiago, it was difficult to mentally end our walk. There was too much going on: the stomach bug, epic blisters, failing shoes, and the hordes of new people. Parker and I were also starting to plan our next stages of travel (Portugal, Egypt, Philippines). It was all too distracting and we were not living in the moment.

I was ambivalent once we arrived in Santiago. The end is always hard to process in the moment but Santiago did not feel like the end for me.  The pilgrimage officially ends in Santiago de Compostela, but long before Christianity, people would walk to the end of the world as they knew it, to the ocean. Parker and I had always dreamed of going all the way to the water.

Finestere was another 54 miles/90 kms away. The kids knew about it and had been saying they wanted to go to the Ocean. We let them make the final decision because walking the 483miles/778kms to Santiago was already a lot to ask of our kids.

But as we were planning our last two weeks, they both said they loved  the Camino and did not want it to end! Once in Santiago, we gave them the last say, especially with the challenging week we just conquered. Cruz said he wanted to keep walking.  Kaia said she wanted to walk all the way across Spain! They had just walked 483 miles/778 kms like rockstars and wanted to keep going. 

This was the best thing Parker and I could have heard as parents. Not just that they wanted to keep going but that they loved the camino as much as we hoped they would. 

Just another 54 miles/90 kms to go to the end of the world.