#1: Siargao: Philippines' Surfing Capital

My homeland, the Philippines, is an archipelago consisting of over 7,600 islands! 

Parker and I are happy to be returning with our kids. We visited my family for three months on our last big trip. This will be Kaia and Cruz's first time to meet their extended family and to explore my beautiful country.

With a two-week window, before meeting my mom, we had plenty of time to check out Siargao, the Surfing Capital of the Philippines. After two days visiting my cousins in Manila, we flew straight to the island paradise in northeastern Mindanao. It was time to "officially" begin homeschooling and also try out a new surf spot.

Cloud 9 is a world famous heavy right-handed barrel break that placed Siargao on the world surfing map. The island now hosts the Siargao International World Surfing Cup, which was taking place the week we arrived. The waves are perfect for competition this time of year due to the swells from the typhoons (tropical hurricanes - it was currently thyphoon season). Oh boy!

We stayed right in front the Cloud 9 break so we could walk directly on the beach and surf. We’re obviously not surfing Cloud 9 but will be trying out the breaks to the left of it. On our first full day there, we did just that. Parker pulled up the surf forecast and it was the biggest surf for the next ten days.

Not gonna lie, I was a little nervous. The waves were big (for us) due to Typhoon Kristine, that was skirting around the islands. We hired local surf guides/instructors since it was new territory. Siargao is a coral reef break and they pointed out the danger spots.

I thought we were staying on the tiny beginner waves, but once the guides tested the kids on the smaller waves (they both popped right up on their boards) they took us straight to the bigger waves on the left of Cloud 9. I was not expecting this on our first time out.

I was nervous initially but once we got on the waves, we had so much fun. The waves were heavy, strong, consistent, and warm! Parker and I kept a close eye on the kids but felt comfortable with the instructors. The break was shallow over the reef so we just had to be careful where and how we landed in the water and not step on the coral (fall flat and never feet or head first). 

Cruz, our little goofy foot, is so light that he would take the waves all the way in. It was fun seeing him ride every wave so far in but the poor guy had a long way to paddle back to the line-up. Kaia realized quickly that the faster she jumps off a wave the less paddling she had to do to get back. 

Our first time out was a success and two hours on those swells wiped us out!

A few days later, the Siargao International Surfing Cup Prelims began. Cruz and I woke up at sunrise to watch the surfers get in some rides before the competition began. First up were the Filipino Men and we were able to catch Cruz's surf instructors compete for a spot on the board.

For the next two weeks, we planned our schedule around the tides and the surf forecast depending on our activity for the day. In the cloud 9 area, we preferred mid to high tide for surfing and low tide for snorkeling.

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Although we feel that our kids have learned more in our five months of international traveling than they would have at school, they were excited to start homeschooling. We found a program that covers the standard curriculum for their grade levels. The rest we will supplement with content we feel is important for them to learn: focusing on reading (at least 30 minutes every day), writing (essays, book reports, etc.), learning new languages, and whatever subject/topic might interest them. 

It takes about 2-3 hours to cover the basic classes. When the humidity gets too heavy, the kids (and parents) take a quick dip in the pool for some relief. Then we have the rest of the day to explore the island: surf, snorkel, swim, etc. 

Nothing motivates a couple of active kids more than: "Hey guys, do your school work then we can go surf./snorkel for "P.E.". Done! We are loving our new routine of a couple hours of school in the morning then island shenanigans the rest of the day.

*****

Siargo was placed on the national traveler's scene when Conde Naste Traveler named it the "Best Island in the World" in 2019. It is still a developing island but I think that's what makes it special. It is no longer a secret paradise, which is no surprise with its chill surfing island vibe.

The best way to get around most places in the Philippines is by motorbike. Parker and I have rented motor bikes in Thailand, India, and other places before but I've never had to drive. This time, with four of us, we needed to rent two. It was only $6 a day for one bike. I was a little anxious about having Cruz with me, but everyone does it. So I took a little test drive and picked it up quickly. Cruz loved it and we were weaving in and out of the crazy traffic in no time. 

Through the Cloud 9 area and General Luna (the town closest to Cloud 9) is Tourist Road where you will find miles of small hotels, resorts, hostels, stores, and little restaurants. And on the road are more tourists on motor bikes than locals. I've never seen such a variety of food offered (other than in Manila). Of course Filipino food, but also Italian, Greek, Mexican, German, etc. and obviously, restaurants/bars with karaoke. Karaoke after all is the national pass time of the Philippines.

On non-school days, we took side trips to explore and search for secret beaches and new surf/snorkeling spots around the island. Siargao is small, it takes about three or so hours to go all the way around the entire island. 

We rode our motor bikes an hour north to try another surf break in the small town of Pacifico. Then we made a stop at Magpupungko Tide Pools. The pools are exposed at low tide and perfect for snorkeling. It was a wild and exciting motor bike ride through coconut groves and rice fields, with the Pacific Ocean in the background.

Our two weeks exploring the Surfing Capital of the Philippines was fun and relaxing. Our plan is to settle into a homeschool routine and home base with my family. Every couple of weeks, we will take side trips to explore other islands. Siargao was a great intro to the slower pace of the tropical island life. 

*****

A huge thank you to my cousins in Manila for a warm welcome and for hosting us for a couple of days. After a few months on the road, it was wonderful to see family. 

We ate a ton and even went to one of the biggest malls in the world, SM Mall of Asia. We bought another Kindle and spent over two hours looking for the only pair of size 13 flip-flops around for Parker. Flip-flops are a must in the Philippines as you take your shoes off every time you enter a space. We were surprised to see Christmas decorations up and learned that the Philippines starts celebrating in September!

Then we were off to meet my mom and visit the rest of my family for our hometown fiesta.

The Great Pyramids of Giza on Kaia's Birthday!!!

Do you remember how you celebrated your 12th birthday? 

I don't. But I know I didn't tour the Great Pyramids of Giza! 

Parker and I were thrilled when we realized that after Spain, we still had plenty of time to visit Portugal, before making our way to Egypt for Kaia's big day. We wanted to gift our baby girl an unforgettable birthday.

*****

Cairo, Egypt welcomed us with a sweltering 105 degree afternoon. We arrived at the end of summer, which was evident once we were immersed in the arid desert climate. In the ancient city, we visited the extraordinary pyramids, saw mummies (and other really, really, really old things) at the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities, and went on a dinner cruise on the Nile River.

Landing in Cairo felt surreal. On our last trip around the world, we did not get to visit Egypt due to political unrest (the 2011 Egyptian Revolution). Thirteen years later, we finally made it.

Parker and I want to make sure that on this trip, we make our kids’ birthdays as memorable as possible. We know that we are on a once in a lifetime experience but we are also sensitive to the fact that they do miss their friends, especially on their birthdays.

Our hotel was kind enough to jazz up Kaia's pancake and added a candle to kick start her day. Then our private guide and driver picked us up at 9am. It took about 30 minutes to get to Giza from the City Center where we were staying.

Stepping foot on the Giza Plateau and finally seeing with our own eyes the only Ancient Wonder of the World still standing, is something we will never forget. It was boiling hot at 100F/37C and felt even hotter on the plateau since we were exposed. Of course, Parker had us put on more sunscreen and drink more water before we headed out onto the desert.

Out of respect for the local culture and tradition, we dressed modestly in Egypt despite the oppressive temperatures. We always wore pants (or a long dress) and covered our shoulders. Since I decided to wear a tank top, I wore a scarf over my shoulders when I was near others.

There are 118 pyramids in Egypt, but we decided to focus our time at the Giza Complex and its three pyramids (Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure), as well as the mystical Sphinx.

The pyramids have withstood the test of time and were built over 4,500 years ago. I will spare you my fifth-grade report about the Giza Pyramid (Khafu) but here are a few fun facts:

- The Pyramid of Giza, a tomb for Pharoh Khafu, is the oldest Pyramid and was built in 2600BC.

- It was the tallest structure in the world for over 3,800 years.

- The architectural wonder stands at 481 feet tall and took approximately twenty years to build.

- An estimated 2.3 million blocks were used, weighing 6 million tons.

- It was claimed that it took 100,000 people to build the pyramid (now it's believed to be closer to 20,000).

- The tombs showcased the high status of the deceased and their family.

Although there were a lot of us (tourist), once you arrived at the foot of a pyramid, it was amazing how insignificantly small we felt and how we seemingly disappeared next to the giant monuments.

The kids looked forward to the obligatory camel ride. Riding a camel is as awkward as you might expect, especially since you  are so high off the ground.  They got used to it and both of them were grinning ear to ear after we settled in: lean back when are going down, and lean forward when going up.

Last, we visited the mystical Sphinx, a creature with the head of a human and the body of a lion. It is the oldest monument in Egypt and is believed to represent the pharaoh Khafre. It is magnificent and alone. The Sphinx has outlasted and has witnessed the rise and fall of civilizations over the last 4,000 years. And here we were, in-line for the best photo-op and watching in amusement as people took kissing photos with one of the most recognizable statues in the world. 

We saw the pyramids! What a day! What a dream!

*****

Kaia chose to have quiet dinner at our rooftop hotel. We surprised her with a few gifts but the biggest surprise were the 15 birthday cards her friends had made for her before we left (the cards were from her best friends, classmates, swim team and martial arts friends). She was genuinely surprised and so happy to receive such thoughtful cards from home. Thank You, Friends!

It is a joy watching our sweet girl's growth on this trip: physically (she now towers over me) and emotionally. Parker and I love our first born who is kind, intelligent, observant, inquisitive, bilingual, and creative. We especially love her quick wit and wicked since of humor. Best of all, she is a great example for her baby brother. I love listening to her and her dad discussing everything from movies and entertainment to physics and space travel. I love watching her patiently teach her brother new things and creating new games with him. I love perusing bookstores and reading with my girl. I especially love seeing her smile so I will do/say anything to make her laugh.

Kaia and Cruz are the catalyst for this trip, a daily reminder of this big dream that Parker and I are living with our family. We are incredibly proud to be her parents. A true beauty inside and out, without a doubt, she will do big things in life. We are the luckiest that we get to spend this time with her and experience these special moments together. It was meant to be that we experienced Egypt and the pyramids as a family.

Happy 12th Birthday, Kaia Bella! You are loved.

Mummies, Markets, and the Magnificent Nile River

One of our favorite days in Cairo (besides visiting the pyramids) was visiting the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. It was an absolute delight. It houses the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts in the world, spanning 5,000 years of history. What the museum lacked in modern amenities was made up in the sheer quality and quantity of its content.

There was no air conditioning, it was dusty, the lighting was terrible, and the display cases were smudged with fingerprints. Some items had handwritten descriptions on note cards. Objects were grouped in areas or rooms with many items/rooms were without a description at all.  

At the entrance of one room was a small sign that read: 19th -20th Dynasty / 1,200 BC - 1,000 BC.  That was it, no other descriptions on the items. Basically: "come on in folks, have a look around, there's some really, really old stuff here".  We loved it.

The kids had a wonderful time exploring the museum. We let them take the lead and we went from one ancient artifact to another. The giant statues were impressive. They especially had fun with the hieroglyphics and guessing what they said. One favorite was a large stone that was a thank you note from one King after a victory in battle. We don't know how long it took to carve but I think I read that it took two years to arrive at its destination.

Of course we were all excited to see the mummies. Most mummies on display had no labels but among the collection are the complete burials of Yuya and Thuya, married nobles (King Tuts' great grandparents). Their tomb was robbed but it still contained chests, beds, chairs, a chariot, and many other items.

Another favorite was the treasures of King Tutankhamun (better known as King Tut). There was a surprising amount of gold and other valuable jewels in his display and throughout the museum. We also got to see his sarcophagus and his perfectly crafted gold mask (unfortunately, no photos are allowed in this room).

When we walked through the museum's massive doors, we didn't know what to expect, but it really blew us away. Parker and I followed our kids as they excitedly explored both floors, room by room. Strategically, we stood a little longer at the exhibits that were near the large fans that were scattered throughout the building. We stayed at the museum until the heat became unbearable. 

Cairo is building two new museums, the Grand Egyptian Museum and the National Museum of Egyptian Civilizations. King Tut's treasures and most of the mummies will be relocated to one of these two new buildings. We are lucky that we got to see everything in once place before they get separated. We drove by the Grand Egyptian Museum, which was super fancy and modern, but there was something very special about the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. Its lack of amenities, unassuming presence, and invaluable treasures made it memorable and fun to explore.

*****

Cairo was our kids' first introduction to a developing nation: no traffic rules (at least the rules weren't followed), insufficient infrastructure, and lack of price transparency to name a few. 

Transportation in Cairo is wild to say the least. That's saying a lot since we have previously spent a year traveling in Asia. First of all, be prepared to hear honking from each vehicle EVERY five seconds. 

The honking will begin at about 9am and will not end until 12am. This is not an exaggeration, it is actual insanity. No one bothers to use their side mirrors so it seems that honking is how the drivers communicate: 1) honk... I'm about to pass, 2) honk... I just passed you, now I'm here, 3) honk... no room, better not pass me, 4) honk... I'm turning first, don't even think about it, and 5) honk... I'm pissed because you did not understand my honk's intention.

Now imagine crossing the street in this environment. It was obvious to the locals that we were fresh meat. They helped us cross until we got comfortable crossing ourselves. Pro-tip: make sure the locals are on the oncoming traffic side... ha. One guy went out of his way to safely guide us. He said "My friends, welcome to Egypt, here we close our eyes and open our hearts before we cross". Long story short, you walk straight across all lanes of traffic and pray you don't get ran over. The key is to maintain your pace and the vehicles will anticipate and flow around you. It was terrifying every time.

Tahrir Square is located at City Center, where we were staying. It is a busy center with a traffic circle and a plaza across the street. We landed on a Friday night so everyone was hanging out at the Square. One of our favorite things was watching the roller bladers (teens/young adults) go in and out of traffic, sometimes holding on to the back of bumpers. Roller bladers on the highway! Just another Friday night in Cairo, Egypt.

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A lack of price transparency in Egypt means get your bargaining skills ready. No one in Egypt is going to tell you the actual price for anything, because there isn't one. Short of booking accommodations online, everything is up for negotiation. Everything. Also, Egypt has a long tradition of tipping (baksheesh), that can be confusing.

Khan el-Khalili is a famous open-air bazaar in the middle of Cairo. Merchants have been trading there since the 14th century. Now it is jam packed with over 4.000 vendors selling everyday items such as clothing and spices to intricate textiles and semi-precious stone.

Navigating the crowded, narrow walkways of the market was an experience and a first for the kids. Parker sticks out like a sore thumb and prices double when he's around. I just make sure he stays back when I'm trying to buy something!

Kaia wanted a dress so it was a good opportunity to teach the kids how to not totally get ripped off. The first price you are told is probably double the actual number. So just keep that in mind and know that half price is probably local, and if you pay just a bit more than that (but not double) that's fine. We're tourist after all, paying a bit more is OK but not double, triple or more.

When Kaia found the dress she wanted, the vendor said 1,300 Egyptian Pounds. Crazy. Knowing the local price was probably around 250-300 pounds, I was good with paying around 400, so I offered 300. He chose the wrong girl. We haggled for a bit and Kaia walked out with a 400 EP dress.  Not the local price but a fair tourist price. She was happy, the vendor was happy. We still talk about that exchange to this day and how I saved 900 EP.

The tipping culture is long standing, expected, and exhausting. Don't tip too little but don't tip too much, and yes, everyone gets tipped. We wanted to be respectable tourists so in the morning, we went over everyone we might come across that day and how much to tip them. First there are the servers for every meal, then our driver, the guy who opens and closes the building doors, tour guides, hotel people, cleaners... the list goes on and on. Who to tip and how much? So exhausting but I think we did pretty well.

*****

On our last night, we booked a dinner cruise on the Nile River. The kids were tired (we all were) but we couldn't leave without experiencing the Nile River. We didn't look too much into what we booked, it sounded easy and fun with the kids.  The cruise had on-board entertainment including live music, a belly dancer, and traditional folk dancers. It was only a few hours on the ship, but it was special to be cruising on the Nile River, even for a short time.

To keep us as safe as possible, Parker always checks the US Travel Department website for travel advisories before booking flights to the next country, we felt safe while we were in Egypt, but we kept a close eye on the news and our surroundings. To be extra cautious, we kept our visit brief and only stayed five days.  Egypt has always felt so far away. What a dream that we got to experience it together. 

And what a world schooling field trip for the kids!

Recovering and Surfing in Portugal

After 45 days of only walking for transport, we jumped on a bus, caught two different high-speed trains, and finally an uber to a quiet coastal town in northern Portugal. The three hour bus ride hugged the the windy coastline with all of it's twists and turns. Surprisingly, only one of us did not fare well on the bus trip (but she handled it like a champ). 

Instead of breaking up our longer legs of travel over a couple of days, we prefer to tackle it all in one stretch if possible. It made for a long day, over 12 hours of travel. It was dark when we arrived at our apartment, but it was worth it to have nine full days to recover and relax.

It was time to decompress, and you guessed it...not walk. But it wasn't the walking we wanted a break from, we loved the walking. It was a break from packing and unpacking our bags every day that we were looking forward to. And we were also looking forward to sleeping in!

*****

Parker suggested Viana do Castelo because it was not touristy like Porto or Lisbon. Viana do Castelo seemed quiet and inviting, we were in. He found a great apartment by the beach with room for us to unpack and stretch out. The seaside neighborhood of Praia do Cabedelo was separate from the main part of town, we had to take a ferry to get there. So perfect.

As as we got to our apartment and explored the beach area, we all decided we wanted to spend our whole time in Portugal in this little seaside town. Yes, I wanted to see Porto and Lisbon, but we all needed to rest and sometimes exploring one place is the best way to go.

Our little neighborhood had everything we needed: a white sandy beach, a couple of small restaurants, a delicious corner bakery, and a small grocery store. Not having to cook has been a luxury that I, in particular, have relished. However, vegetables were often hard to come by when eating out in Spain and we were all craving greens. Not to mention the decision fatigue with every meal had become exhausting. Parker and I were excited to have a full kitchen and cook our first meals in months. 

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Praia do Cabedelo is a half-moon shaped bay with a one kilometer stretch of sandy white beach. It is a haven for water lovers. We were minutes away and during our stay, we experienced various weather conditions for every water sport: surfing, kite surfing, kayaking, swimming, stand-up paddle boarding, etc.here  There was one day with zero wind and the beach was packed of sunbathers.

There was something very interesting we observed about the beaches we visited in Europe (France Spain and Portugal) vs the beaches that we have visited in the US. Even though the beaches in Europe were full of people it was calm and quiet. 

First of all, the Europeans bring next to nothing to the beach: just a towel, maybe a book, and a bucket/shovel for the kids. Unlike some beaches in the states where trucks/SUVs back up on the beach and unload tents, chairs, coolers full of drinks and food, and containers of toys, etc. Even if we can't drive on the beach, we still bring a ridiculous amount of things. And don't forget the competing music on loud speakers. There were hundreds of people on this beach but you could barely hear anyone's conversation. There was no music. Everyone kept to themselves, read, or just soaked in the sun and sea.

Recovering was our main goal but we also came to Portugal to surf. Portugal is known for it's great surf and the kids were excited to learn. Although Parker and I have surfed in Hawaii, New Zealand, and Australia, (which sounds way cooler than our actual abilities), we still consider ourselves beginners.

Nineteen years ago, we took surf lessons on our honeymoon in Maui, Hawaii. We recieved one of those cute tourist certificates for our efforts. Ever since, we look for surf on our travels, and we were excited to share this with the kids. Of course they loved it and were hooked. 

The water was freezing cold (14C/57F). It went against my good senses to get in a wetsuit and join the rest of my family. I am a Pacific Islander through and through, I love warm water and hot weather. After a couple of hours, my feet were frozen and I could barely stand on the board. But we all had a blast. 

The beach breaks were fun and consistent.  Parker pushed the kids onto the surf and taught them how to catch their own waves. They picked up surfing quickly and did not mind the freezing cold water. For the rest of out stay, we scheduled our time around the surf forecast calendar. One day the breaks were overhead and the surf was so good that all the locals also came out to surf. Surfing in Portugal was great practice for the warmer waters of the tropics in a few weeks.

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A couple of times we made it out of our little neighborhood and took the ferry to explore Viana do Castelo. Viana do Castelo is on the route of the Portuguese Camino and it was fun spotting the Camino arrows around town. Once you've followed them, you can't un-see them. It's fun being a tourist without carrying everything you need on your back. Our first order of business was to find Kaia new shoes. We went to the mall and wandered aimlessly. 

In our wandering, we discovered the famous pastry of Viana do Castello, the bolas natario. It's a small donut filled with sweet custard topped with cinnamon and sugar: perfection. We loved the change of food in Portugal. It was a welcomed change from eating so much ham and baguettes in Spain. The seafood In Portugal was fresh and delicious. 

Post Camino, it was nice to unpack, spread out our things, lounge, read, write, watch shows, play games, take naps, and sleep in. The only set date we have this year was in October, in the Philippines, to meet my mom and visit my family. We were slowly making our way to the Pacific Islands. But first, we had a very special birthday to celebrate in Egypt.

*****

Portugal was in a severe drought and the country was battling wildfires. Unfortunately, at the end of our stay, the wildfires in Portugal worsened. While we were there, there were 160 active fires. One was 25 minutes away from us. Some roads were closed off until some of the fires were under control. The last couple days on our visit were very smoky and it greatly affected the air quality. It really affected Cruz and we kept our outside time to a minimum. Rain was forecasted the weekend we left and we read that they got some relief from the break in weather. We hope for the best for this wonderful little country.