Saturday, December 28, 2024

#4: Paradise in Palawan

- Alimanguan Beach -

Don't tell anyone... we found paradise!

It took two flights (to two different islands), and a wild four-hour van ride through the coastal mountains to arrive there: Alimanguan Beach.

We flew to the beautiful island of Palawan for another two-week island "vacation" (a vacation in our vacation). Palawan is a province of 1,780 islands in the western Philippines. We stayed a night in Puerto Princessa, the largest city in Palawan and the location of the biggest airport, then made our way to our first destination, Alimanguan Village. 

This remote tiny village of 4,500 people is on the northern end of Long Beach, a 14km stretch of endless white sand, and the longest beach in the Philippines. We chose Alimanguan because it is one of only two spots in Palawan that has any surfing.  


- Surf's Up! -


After checking in, we walked straight to the beach. The waves were beautiful beginner waves and there was not a single person on the beach. We could not believe our luck and rented surf boards immediately for less than $10 a day. The waves were perfect beach breaks over sand and some sets were pretty large. It was a relief not have to worry about coral or rocks. 

It was just the four of us. This was exactly what we've been looking for: beginner waves with a break over sand in warm water. We decided to extend our stay and rented surfboards for the rest of the week. We didn't bother renting motorbikes because we knew we weren't going anywhere, we came to surf.




Our schedule for the week was pretty simple: school in the morning and surf after lunch. Parker spent hours pushing the kids on the waves and coaching them. They got really comfortable on the board and started working on their turns. We also bodyboarded to break up the surfing. 

One afternoon it started raining while we surfed. What started as a light sprinkle turned into a roaring  downpour. There was no lightning so we decided to keep surfing. It was one of the coolest things we experienced on the trip. The layers of waves were a muted turquoise which blended in perfectly with the skyline.  I'll never forget catching waves in the rain in Palawan.


*****



-14km, Long Beach -

One morning Parker and I woke up early to walk to this adorable little island/peninsula about half a kilometer away at low tide. On some rocks separating this part of the beach from the next was a sign that said, "Temporarily closed". A guy walked over to us to make sure we didn't go any further, and said they were filming Survivor Philippines. That's how remote we were. 

It was a quiet and relaxing time in this beautiful village and its undisturbed beach. There were only three places to stay. We were limited to the three "restaurants" at the three "resorts"(we use this term lightly)/hotels. There were no other tourist amenities. We loved it.

The local government has implemented strict guidelines for future development in this area to preserve the natural beauty of the coastline. No doubt though it will be discovered soon enough by recreational surfers and travelers. One day this area will be fully developed. We were lucky to experience Alimanguan's undisturbed beauty.


*****


- Kayaked to Papaya Beach -


After our relaxing week in Alimanguan, we headed north to the busy town of El Nido to explore more of Palawan. We booked a shared van for the windy two hour drive to the top of the island. In the van was a couple from Germany who said they saw us surfing. Small world, but we were hard to miss since we were the only ones in the ocean.

Palawan was voted, "Best Island in the World" by Travel and Leisure. It continues to top "Best Island" Awards from many other publications. El Nido is a municipality comprising of 45 islands. It is known for its stunning beaches, limestone cliffs, coral reefs, and lush landscape. Island hopping is the best way to explore this paradise.


- Kayaked and played around on another secluded beach. -


First, we rented two double kayaks for a self-guided adventure. We launched from Corong-Corong Bay and spent the day paddling from one secluded beach to another. A self-guided kayak tour is the only way to avoid the large crowds on the tour boats. The seas were choppy and it was quite windy. Parker and Kaia had a little scare paddling over the shallow reef to the first beach, but we all made it safely. We were rewarded with a stunning beach and great snorkeling at the aforementioned reef. Best of all, we shared the beaches with only a couple of other adventurous souls. 

We were on the windward side of the island and got a little rain, but being in the tropics we only had to wait a few minutes before the weather eventually blew away and the sun came out. The sketchy weather was worth the risk as we kayaked by the dramatic limestone cliffs through every hue of blue water you could imagine. 


*****


- Seven Commando Beach -

Later in the week, we booked an obligatory island hopping tour. We try to avoid tourist traps but there really is no way around it in El Nido. It's the best was to see this part of the Philippines. The area is so busy that the government had to step in to regulate the environmental impact of tourism.

Your choices are Tour A, B, C, and D. Each tour takes you to a different set of beaches, lagoons, caves, etc. Tour A was our choice which included: Seven Commando, Shimizu Island, Secret Lagoon, and Big Lagoon.


- Shimizu Island -

We booked a boat tour through our resort with 13 others who were staying there. We were lucky to have such a small group because the capacity for our boat was 30 people. 

The captain made an unexpected stop at a snorkeling spot to start the tour. Then we went to Seven Commando Beach which also had great snorkeling and the beach was beautiful. We had about and hour to an hour and a half to enjoy each stop.


-Lunch Break -

Shimizu island was our lunch spot which was about a 30 minute ride from Seven Commando. We anchored by a cluster of islands and feasted on a buffet lunch consisting of grilled fish, crabs, chicken adobo, fruit, etc.

Around the corner was Secret Lagoon. We docked on a very sketchy spot between two rocks (two small islands). Remarkably, we did not crash even though the sea was acting up. I looked around to try to figure out why our captain placed us in such a precarious location when I saw a few people swimming through a small opening at the bottom of one of the cliffs we were wedged against.


- Secret Lagoon -

The entrance to the "not so" Secret Lagoon, was about three feet wide by three feet tall. You had to go under water to see what the fuss was all about. One of the passengers on our boat (he was actually from Chicago) ultimately decided not to make the precarious journey because he was unstable on his feet in the tidal pushes and he didn't think he would fit through the opening.

Once inside, it opened up to an area the size of a small swimming pool surrounded by limestone cliffs. It was a fun stop. But once it got crowded, we swam/crawled our way out and headed over to another lagoon across the way that was less claustrophobic. The tide was coming in so we had to be careful not to get cut on the rocks during our entry/exit out of the lagoon.


- Big Lagoon -

Our final destination was Big Lagoon, maybe the most famous site in Palawan. Our boat docked outside of the lagoon and you have to actually kayak into the lagoon. On the way out at the end of the day, the waves and wind were conspiring to keep the boats in the lagoon and we actually saw a couple of kayaks flip.


- Big Lagoon -

From the boat, it took about ten minutes of intense paddling before we safely made it into the channel to the lagoon which was protected and calm. The lagoon was beautiful, peaceful and yes, big. We paddled along the limestone cliffs and it was easy to see why it was so popular. We paddled through small rock islands and little caves. We got out at the shallow channel and enjoyed a swim. Someone saw a reef shark and on our way out we paddled beside a sea turtle.

The island hopping tour is what it is: busy, but we would say it was worth it.


*****


- El Nido Bay -


El Nido is one of the most popular destinations in the Philippines. The small bay is packed with hotels/hostels, international cuisine, and an assortment of stores. It's also a backpacker destination with a late night life and a busy night market.


- El Nido's Markets -

It takes a bit of effort to reach most of the destinations in Palawan. However, as with any location that is well sought out amongst international travelers, you lose the local culture as the economy accommodates the droves of tourist.


- Palawan Sunset -

The balance of Alimanguan Village, a destination off the beaten path, and El Nido, the tourist trap, worked well for us. We felt that we saw the best of both worlds. Overall, Palawan Provinces' beaches, lagoons, and incredible turquoise waters were incredible and worth the visit. 



Thursday, December 19, 2024

#3: Siquijor - An Enchanted Island known for Witchcraft


- Epic Siquijor Island Sunset -

Siquijor is an island known for its witchcraft, magic, and folk healing. We hoped to get a glimpse of this enchantment during our two week visit all while exploring its many beaches, waterfalls, snorkel sanctuaries, and cliff jumping spots. And oh my goodness, the sunsets...

To get to Siquijor from Mindanao, we hopped on a five-hour ferry. Transport by ferry is the most common way to navigate the Philippines' 7,600+ islands, and it is the only option for this small island since it doesn't have an airport. On our 5 hour ferry we took a long nap, enjoyed the ocean air, and saw a pod of dolphins swim by. Luckily, the weather was nice and the seas were calm.

Even though Siquijor only has six towns, there was a lot to explore. We decided to stay in San Juan because it was close to all the activities we wanted to do. We rented motor bikes right away and this time for only $5 a day, what a deal. We couldn’t wait to explore the whole island by motorbike.

*****


- Potions and Voodoo Dolls -

Immediately, we started seeing these little voodoo dolls and potions for sale throughout the island. The love potion was interesting because it was also "good luck" for your business. It had a warning that said to "not use it near cemeteries and to not take it to funeral wakes". Noted. 

We found a great place to stay for our two weeks that was close to everything and across the street from the beach. Our plan is always to book only the first few nights to assess our accommodations and the area. With homeschooling, we have to make sure that the wifi is strong, there is enough room for the kids to work, and of course, we have to make sure that we didn't book somewhere with unbearable karaoke nearby. Our place was great, and we ended up staying the entire 2 weeks at our first spot.

With our lodging set, our schedule was: Breakfast at 8am, homeschool from 9am-11/12/1pm, then off to an island adventure in the afternoon.

*****


- New friends at Balete Tree -

Early on in our stay we met another world-traveling family from Spain. They are traveling Southeast Asia and have been on the road about the same amount of time as us, five or six months. They have three kids ages 12, 9, and 2. Perfect.

They were staying at the same place as us. It took the kids a couple of days of seeing each other around to warm up to each other, but after that, they played and swam together in the pool every day (after school of course). Their older two kids did not speak much English. Their mom said that it has been a bit difficult for them to meet other kids, and the family was happy to find out that our kids spoke Spanish. 

There's nothing like a good game of Marco Polo in the pool to break the ice, regardless of your native language. Parker and I are proud of our kids for using their Spanish to make new friends. It was fun listening to them interpret/explain different games in Spanish. The kids knew many similar childhood games and also taught each other some new ones.


- Enchanted Balete Tree...(Where's Waldo?)  -

Later that week, we took a "field trip" with our new friends to see the "Enchanted" Balete Tree. A four-hundred year old tree from the ficus family with a natural stream running directly under it. A shallow pool was built at its base and eventually, skin eating fish were added. Visitors sit around the pool to admire the tree and get a little foot spa/cleaning.


- Nibble, Nibble -

The toothless fish nibble on dead skin cells. They were mostly tiny fish but some were huge. Parker didn’t dip his feet in because he thought it was unsanitary, and Kaia wasn’t keen on the fish nibbling on her feet. Parker and I have done this before in Thailand so I just dipped my feet in briefly because I am too ticklish. Cruz got a kick out of it though, and kept putting his feet in. He said one of the larger fish gobbled up his pinky toe...eeekkk. 

Was the centennial tree truly enchanted? Who knows, but my sprained ankle did felt better after...hmm. Also, Cruz had really clean toes, ha! The fish foot spa (also popular in many other countries) is a clever tourist gimmick and was totally unnecessary, but a fun little break. Local folklore says that the Balete Tree is magical and in the evenings spiritual creatures appear. Looking at the tree, it is easy to believe that sorcery was (and maybe is still) practiced there. Regardless, it was impressive and all the tourist at the fish foot spa did not distract from the majesty of the tree.


- La-gaan Falls -

After the Balete Tree, we went to one of many water falls in Siquijor. Siquijor is famous for its waterfalls. These waterfalls are deep in the jungle and usually require a bit of a motorbike ride and then a hike to get to. We chose La-Gaan falls for our first one. It was about a 20 minute motorbike ride from the tree, then we had to get a guide to take us on a long, steep, and sketchy wet hike through the jungle and down to the falls. 

It was worth it because we were the only people there. There was a natural slide on the falls and swings on a tree near by. The kids (and dads) had a blast swinging and sliding down the falls, over and over again. The dads were pretty sore the next day. It was great watching the kids play and hear them speak excitedly in Spanish. 

At the end of the week, we were sad to say goodbye to our friends. They were off to another island while we had another week of exploring Siquijor. We hope our paths will cross later in our travels.

*****


- Cambugahay Falls -

Our homeschooling schedule was going well and we had plenty to do to keep us busy in the afternoon. One day we decided to motorbike around the whole island! We planned on two stops along the way: Cambugahay Falls and Salangdoog Beach. We had to get to our first stop early enough to time our second stop at high tide.


- Cambugahay Falls -


First we stopped at the famous Cambugahay Falls, Siquijor's number one attraction. It was 135 big steps to hike down to the multi-tiered falls. After hiking to the different levels, we settled on the middle one. The big one was too crazy with all the people paying to get their pictures taken on the rafts, and the top one was nice, but shallow. The middle one was just right… not too crowded and with little to no wait on the Tarzan swings. For 50 Pesos (~$1), you could swing to your hearts content. The water was cool and there were also small caves under the falls. 


- Salangdoog Cliff Jumping -

While the tide was still up, we hustled over to Salangdoog Beach for some cliff jumping and snorkeling. This was the most gorgeous beach we had visited so far on the island. Right off the middle of the beach was a limestone cliff/small island where crazy people...my family… jumped off into the turquoise water. 

I'm grateful for an adventurous husband (a big kid at heart) who does all these things with our kids. Parker always checks depths, potential hazards, and instructs the kids how to properly jump or swing off things. There were three cement platforms poured into the cliffs for jumping (5m [16.5ft], 7m [23ft], and 9m [29.5ft]). I did jump off the little one, which was fun and enough for me. 

The snorkeling was great and we had a nice lunch at the restaurant on the beach. It was also fun to cheer other people on as they mustered up the courage to make the jumps. The kids said that cliff jumping was their favorite activity so far on the island.

We continued on our circumnavigation adventure and got to see Siquijor's stunning coastline. The further out we were from the tourist spots, the quieter and more peaceful the towns. It took us just two hours to go around the entire island, drive time. With our two stops, we were able to motorbike around the whole island in just six hours. It was a great day.

*****


- Snorkeling at Tubod Sanctuary -

Another after school road trip was an afternoon spent snorkeling at Tubod Sanctuary. The Tubod Marine Sanctuary is a large area of the beach in Siquijor that has been roped off from fishing, boating, etc. The coral here is more vibrant than a lot of places we have seen so far and the fish were plentiful. Unfortunately, we went at low tide and had to skim over the reef nearer the shore about an inch from our bellies for quite a distance before it opened up. A nerve racking experience for sure with anemones and sea urchins everywhere. Once we were farther out the reef was quite large and deep. 

The kids have really grown to love snorkeling and this was the best so far we have seen in the Philippines. The coral was beautiful and we saw a ton of fish. Parker and Kaia went out for a second time and saw a hawksbill sea turtle out near the edge of the sanctuary! We also took trips to the different beaches and brought our snorkels every where we went.


*****


- Dinner at Sunset -

As for the witchcraft and magic, we didn't see any firsthand. However, the island is indeed known for faith healers, herbal healers, and bolo-bolo healers (they use stones to remove spells and spirits). Siquijor hosts a Healing Festival every year that attracts travelers from around the world searching for alternative remedies. Although I read about curses, the magic we heard about was "white magic", more towards healing and not harm.





One evening, we had drinks with a couple of island locals. One of them is making a documentary about the mystery surrounding  Siquijor. I had a lot of questions and he offered to take me to a healer who lived deep in the mountains. I considered it but I came to the conclusion that my issues were likely from lack of exercise, over indulgence in my favorite Filipino dishes, and unfortunately my unavoidably aging joints. I politely declined the offer. But if you ever come to Siquijor and are looking for a healer...I know a guy who knows a guy.




My most favorite thing about Siquijor was the incredible sunsets. We (I) timed our dinners at restaurants on the beach, at sunset. They were that spectacular, night after night. Also, another special thing about the island is that the people are the friendliest you'll ever meet. They are easy going and undemanding.

During our stay, we found out that Siquijor is building an airport and it will be operational in 2025. We are lucky to experience its quaintness before it gets busier. 

We loved the laid back vibe of this mystical island and all the activities it offers. For us, the magic of Siquijor is in its beautiful people and epic sunsets. 






Tuesday, December 10, 2024

#2: Fiesta Time with my Mama





Arriving in the Philippines with my mom is always special.  Thirteen years ago, Parker and I were childless nomads exploring the world and figuring our what we wanted from life.  Now we return with our babies, sharing with them what we love about the world while finding new experiences and making new memories.

When we arrived, my family started singing Happy Birthday to Kaia. They had set up a full party to surprise her for a belated celebration: lechon (traditional whole roasted pig) and all the sides. She was so surprised, she said, "who's birthday is it"? It clicked when she saw her name and all of our pictures on the wall.

The celebration began in the afternoon and family came in and out all day to welcome us. Of course, there was karaoke and the guitar came out in the evening. We ate and sang through the night. The kids jumped right in and got along well with their cousins. It was a great welcome.

*****



The week leading up to a fiesta is lively with many activities: parades, contests, food markets, etc. You know it's fiesta week when the  karaoke starts every morning ridiculously early, like 6/7am early. If it's not karaoke, then its speakers on full blast.

Everyone is cooking all day. Family and friends are always dropping off food. A bowl of this, a plate of that. It is none stop cooking and eating. Breakfast might last two hours since people are in an out. Of course you eat the whole time because it's rude not to eat with guests. Then as soon as we are done with a meal, we start prepping for the next. Throughout the day we gather around the dining table and eat together. It was a constant stream of visitors and constant eating. It was excessive and so much fun.

The day of the fiesta, we were invited to four homes to celebrate: 11am, 12:30pm, 4pm, and 6pm. The kids said, "What?! we can't eat that much!" We told them to do their best, ha. Every family welcomed us with a lechon and all the sides, home after home. We took naps in between. The last home was my Aunt Annette's house and we ended the evening with what else but  karaoke. We were stuffed and rolled ourselves home.


*****





While my mom was there, we went to a floating cottage and went to the river to celebrate my cousin's birthday. Every where we went, there are at least 30 of us. And it wouldn't be a Filipino gathering without food. All the food. So much food.

*****



On All Saints' Day is a public Christian holiday in the Philippines. It is a holiday to honor all the Saints, as well as a day to remember family and friends who have passed. Celebrating this meaningful holiday is one of my earliest memories, of our whole family gathering to remember and honor our passed relatives.  

The cemetery was lively and full of people. It is a special day for Filipinos. My aunt took us around to different sites to visit family who have passed and light a candle for them. We saw neighbors and distant cousins. It was a special tradition that Parker and I felt was important to share with our kids.

*****




Meeting my mom was the only solid date we had this year. We worked everything else around it. We are staying longer but the time she was here was a meaningful time our kids.  

Thank you, mom, for setting up Kaia's birthday, all the fun activities around fiesta, and for making our time here memorable!