Climbing 16,300 ft to Vinicunca (aka: Rainbow Mountain)

Vinicunca Pass : 16,300 ft

Peru! Country #9 on this trip and our kid's 5th continent (mine and Parker's 6th continent).

It was no small feet to travel from northern Japan to Peru. After 5 flights and over 36 hours of travel: We arrived in Lima, checked into our room near the airport, and slept for 14 hours straight. The next morning, we went back to the airport and flew to Cuzco, our 6th flight from Sapporo, Japan.

Lima is at 528 ft. of elevation while Cuzco is at 11,152 ft. We gave ourselves five days in Cuzco to acclimatize ourselves and the kids. With mad jetlag and the elevation gain, our sleep schedule was wild to say the least. We would "take a nap" in the afternoon and end up sleeping for 10-12 hours. Then we would all be wide awake around 2am/3am and start chatting, drawing, or reading. It took us 4-5 days to adjust.

*****

Vinicunca was a much anticipated hike on our Peru itinerary. The Montana de Siete Colores (Mountain of Seven Colors) is also referred to as Rainbow Mountain. 

In 2013, the glacier that once covered Vinicunca melted, reveling it's unique geographical colors. It has only been the past ten years that this day hike has become a major destination. It is now the second most visited site in Peru.

To avoid the crowds, we decided to arrange a 3am pick up. This sounded crazy to us at first but after some research, it made the most sense. We read that with 1,000-1,500 visitors a day, it can be hard to enjoy the hike when the mountain is crowded. Vinicunca is three hours away from Cuzco so to be one of the first tours there, we had to leave early. 

We shared the van with nine others: two girls from Canada, a girl from Germany, and six young dudes from Chicago. We were off by 3:20 am. Our driver suggested that we get some sleep until we stop for breakfast around 4:30 am. After breakfast. it was another hour and a half to get to the trail head.

The drive up the valley was windy and stomach churning. Kaia, Cruz, and I took Dramamine which was helpful because our driver drove fast (running through red lights and passing people on narrow roads). It was just past 6am when we arrived at the trail head.

We were the third vehicle to arrive. It was chilly so we all got going right away. Although this was just a day trip, Parker and I carried a lot in our packs for emergencies. We were climbing to over 16,000 ft where the weather can change in an instant. We wanted to make sure that our kids would be as comfortable as possible in any condition so we carried extra layers, full raingear, liters of water, and of course, snacks.

Horses for hire, stylish alpacas, and the cutest little hiker.

It's only an 8km round-trip walk to the pass but it's the altitude that makes this hike challenging. We had given our selves plenty of time to acclimatize in Cuzco (11.000ft). This was our fourth day and we felt the kids were acclimatized. Within ten minutes, we could all feel the altitude. Along the way, were bathrooms, vendors, and adorable alpacas for photo ops. The villagers of the area also offered horses to take you up almost to the top. For 70 Peruvian Soles ($19) you could hire a horse to take you up and for $100 Soles ($27) the horse will take you back down too.  

We came to hike, so we hiked. The kids did great, we just had to keep slowing them down, make them take little breaks, and drink plenty of water. For some reason, Parker has never really been affected by altitude. Altitude hits me hard like most people but I know all I have to do is move forward slowly.

Two of the guys in our group hired a horse shortly after we started walking. They had flown into Cuzco  the night before and did not give themselves time to acclimatize. No Bueno. There were two very steep parts on the way up. Our guide told us that one stretch was called "Gringo Killer". Right before that climb, two more guys in our group opted for horses.

The coolest kids we know! And pretty cool alpacas too.

The Richardson Kids made it up to 16,300 ft. like champs! We are so proud of them! 

The early wake up call was totally worth it when we arrived at the pass with only a few people around. It was windy and cold at the pass so we layered the kids up. We enjoyed the view, ate snacks, and hydrated. As we snacked, we watched the influencers take their photos. One of the guides said that many women change out of their hiking clothes and into dresses or cute outfits once they make it up to the top. That's definitely how Rainbow Mountain went viral.

We learned that the two towns on either side of the mountain made a pact to switch off working the route every other week, tending the small stores, offering horses, etc. Tourism has been great for the economy, however, the locals are also working hard to preserve the natural beauty of the land. 

On our way down, we passed hundreds of people going up "Gringo Killer". We can easily see how it could be a mess on the pass when you start later in the day and end up on top with hundreds/thousands of people. 

Parker and I have been at altitude many times pre-kids. In the Everest and Annapurna region in Nepal, we went up over 18,000ft three separate times. Altitude is no joke and we are so proud of our kids for their effort. We made sure they were acclimatized, carried all the necessary gear for emergencies, and did everything we could to make the hike enjoyable for them. 

It has been incredible to watch them grow into strong, capable hikers on this trip. Vinicunca is unlike any mountain or landscape we've seen. People complemented our kids on how strong they are, we learned most kids need assistance to the top. It was a challenge and they loved it. Rainbow Mountain was a great experience for our family.

Skiing in Japan and Visiting Magical Sapporo

Niseko, Japan

After our whirlwind tour of Tokyo, we flew to northern Japan to ski! When we left for our trip in 2024, Japan was on our itinerary but we later added skiing when we realized we would be there at the end of ski season. 

Northern Japan is known for its legendary powder, "Japow". We knew we had to make it happen. Because the air is so dry in the Hokkaido Region, the snow is light and fluffy creating the perfect conditions for skiing/snowboarding.

Parker did a ton of research, arranged lodging, booked transport, and rented all of our gear. We always carry basic outdoor gear: a base layer, a warmth layer, and a shell. The rest (skis, boots, helmets, etc.) we rented through the hotel. We ended up in Niseko, about 2 hours outside of Sapporo. He also found us the most amazing, two bedroom, ski-in/ski-out Hotel. We had a dreamy floor to ceiling view of the mountains and one of the ski lifts was right outside our room.

The first day was wild. We started with promising sunshine. However, throughout the day the weather turned. The fluffy snow became slush at the lower altitudes and we all got caught in a blizzard up top. When we got off the high lift, the wind started blowing away (literally) the little ones. One of Cruz's poles flew away and Parker helped him out of his skis so he wouldn't be blown down the mountain also. We all had to take our skis off and hunker down behind a small "abandoned" building to gather our wits.

Night Skiing!

We calmed the kids down to tell them the plan,  we had to ski down! It was only a few minutes later that they shut the lifts down due to the winds. Everyone was a bit shaken (mostly because you couldn't see more than 10 feet) but we definitely couldn't stay up there. As we made our way down the mountain, the weather improved and we skied in for a much needed break. 50 MPH winds with a white-out and blowing ice will wipe you out pretty quick!

After our insane first day on the slopes, we all rallied and went back out for night skiing. It was everyone's first time night skiing and the conditions were great. We all had a blast and it made up for our crazy start. Once the kids recovered, the blizzard/wind storm situation was a good opportunity to discuss how to get out of a challenging situation and it made for a great skiing story.

Skiing is one of the activities we do that Parker's patience really shines. He started skiing with his family when he was two years old. He put skis on Cruz when he was two and when Kaia was four. I love watching him teach our kids how to ski. 

Since kids don't really turn and I am a leisure skier, I am now officially the slowest skier in the family. We also figured out that I can't ever lead and be in front of Cruz. 

A mom who turns too much + a kid who doesn't turn = crash! No one broke anything so it was all good.

Cousins!

The rest of the time was great. Parker and Amanda grew up skiing with their cousins, there were ten cousins including the two of them. I've heard all the wild stories and all the great memories. I love that we're continuing to create these memories for our kids. A Richardson tradition continues.

On our last night skiing, it started snowing heavily but the conditions were soooo good! I experienced pure bliss on the slopes. I was grinning ear to ear, so full of gratitude. I mean, how were we skiing in Japan?!!  I felt like I was in a dream. It was incredible. 

*****

After Niseko, we headed to Sapporo, a nice seaside train ride from the slopes. We spent the afternoon with the Kaesers and then said our goodbyes as they were making their way home. We're happy they came half way around the world to meet us. We made great memories for our families.

The first part of our trip and the skiing wore us out, so we decided to stay the rest of our time in Japan in Sapporo. We were tired from all of the traveling, we normally don't move that fast.

Our hotel was in downtown Sapporo and in the middle of everything. Underneath our hotel was the Sapporo underground shopping street (Pole Town). It is part of the subway system so it is packed day and night, with stores and restaurants lining both sides. It is also a great way to move around in inclement weather!

Claw Machine Arcade

On our block was Tanikukoji Shopping Street with over 200 shops. It also had multi-story claw machine arcade with hundreds of machines offering tiny prizes to huge plush toys. It was crazy, the kids loved it and we went every day.

Across the street was a Mega Don Quijote, a famous discount chain in Japan. Don Quijotes offer groceries, clothing, electronics, some luxury brands, etc. This one was five stories tall and was open 24/7. Imagine a Dollar Store/Nordstrom Rack on crack with every thing in Japanese writing, bright lights, and loud music.

The food was fantastic in Sapporo. We visited Ramen Alley a couple of times. A small alley with seventeen small ramen restaurants. The first restaurant we went to had a small sign that read, "Anthony Bourdain come to the here". We had miso ramen which was simple and delicious. We also enjoyed some really amazing sushi while in Sapporo like nigiri topped with salmon roe and wrapped in salmon, uni nigiri, and so many other delicious bites.

Odori Park was a five minute walk away. One of our favorite days was when seven inches of snow blanketed the city. We headed straight to the park and the kids built a snow man and had a snowball fight. It was a bit challenging to do either because the snow is so fluffy and dry, it didn't stick. But the kids had a blast. The park was full of locals and tourists alike enjoying the huge, fluffy, magical snow fall.

We were all sad to leave Japan and wished we could have stayed longer. We loved the beautiful sites, the epic powder, the delicious food, and amazing culture. It's a fascinating country deeply rooted in tradition in a very modern society. Japan is one of our favorite countries. We all can't wait to go back.

Tokyo: Spring Break 2025 with Cousins

Shibuya Scramble Crossing 

(up to 3,000 pedestrians crossing at a time).

After almost ten months of traveling, we were excited that Parker's sister and her family were meeting us in Japan. The Kaesers (Amanda, Brad, Krislyn, and Lissa) flew out to Tokyo to meet us on their Spring Break. We also blocked off that time for our kid's homeschooling "Spring Break". Kaia and Cruz were looking forward to hanging out with their cousins.

We had a couple of days to settle into our AirBNB in Shinjuku to get familiar with the area and figure out the public transport before they arrived. Japan is not necessarily for the "wing it" traveler, and it takes a little planning to get the most out of the day.

Tokyo Wanderings

Tokyo proper has a population of 14 million people, with the greater Tokyo area containing a population of over 37 million people. We had to prioritize what we all wanted to do and try to do activities based on their proximity from each other. It was a lot of walking and many hours on public transport every day. 

We had several talks with the kids about behaving properly in public and keeping their voice down (especially on trains). Japan emphasizes social harmony and consideration for others. There is very little to no talking on the trains. The kids adjusted pretty well with a few reminders. 

Some Tokyo highlights:

Team Labs

Team Labs, a fantastic interactive museum. We walked through a magical floating orchid garden, waded through water (much cooler than it sounds), and entered vibrant digital worlds. A favorite was when we colored a provided image which was then projected around the room with other visitor's coloring pages. As well as being visually stunning, every "environment" constantly interacted with the people around. We all loved the whole experience and highly recommend it. Thanks for getting the tickets Amanda!

After Team Labs, we went to Sensoji Temple. It is the oldest Buddhist temple in Tokyo dating back to 645 AD.  The complex also includes a beautiful five story pagoda. This is an important religious site in Japan and it is very busy with locals as well as tourists. There were many people dressed in full kimonos doing professional photo shoots. Lining the streets were endless shops and restaurants. It's a fun area and we had a great lunch sitting on the floor in true Japanese style.

We had one more thing on our itinerary for the day, but we were all exhausted. Also, the Kaesers were still dealing with jet lag. We had a couple of train rides to get back to our place and we crashed. It seems like one or two activities on the itinerary per day is all we can handle in Tokyo.

Godzilla Head and the 3d Cat

The next day we did some wandering in the city. We were staying in the Shinjuku area which is pretty central. We saw the Godzilla Head and the 3D Cat. Both were hard to capture on camera, but quite impressive in person. Then we ran into a five story claw machine building. It's like an arcade but with only claw machines. We found that these are very common and popular in Japan. The kids loved it.

With all of our tourist-ing, we got pretty hungry. Brad found a conveyer belt sushi place for us. We were excited when we saw that the restaurant was only locals, and full. We knew it was going to be good. It was exactly what we needed, quick and delicious. The fish was so fresh. Each plate had two nigiri, some were simple and some a bit fancier. I regrettably ate one with a squid that required too much chewing, but everything else was super. We had a huge stack of about 50 plates combined. 

Conveyer Belt Sushi for the Win!

Other food adventures: French fries and chopsticks

UENO Zoo was fun and filled most of the day. At first we thought the zoo was small but it just kept going and going. The weather was cool so we kept a good pace. We saw some really cool animals: a polar bear, a pangolin, and a red panda to name a few.  At the UENO Park were also early cherry blossom blooms. I was the most excited about the blossoms, because I can't think about Japan without thinking of cherry blossoms. 

Cherry Blossoms! Cherry Blossoms!

It doesn't take long to realize how spread out and massive Tokyo is, meaning, our ambitious itinerary had to be adjusted. We had two to three things scheduled everyday placing them in order of importance. Unfortunately, our Fuji day was scratched due to time and logistics. 

We did make it to the free Observatory on the 45th floor of the Metropolitan Government Building, giving us a great view of the city. We also went to the famous Shibuya Crossing on our last evening. It is the largest pedestrian crossing in the world with as many as 3,000 people crossing at a time! I had everyone cross a few times for fun.

Onigiri all day! So good.

Tokyo was fast and exhausting. But hey, we had a 7Eleven at every corner to keep us going between sightseeing locations. The 7Elevens in Japan are amazing with great snacks and to go food. We all left Tokyo with a bit of an obsession with onigiri, a triangle rice ball stuffed with tuna/salmon or (other delicacies) and wrapped in seaweed. This was the perfect snack and they were available every where (even vending machines). We left Tokyo tired but had a great time exploring a new city with family.

 

First Train of the day! Yay! Let's go!

Last Train of the day!

So. Many. Trains.