Pura Vida! - Costa Rica

Peru was fantastic.  However, due to the State of Emergency in Lima, we decided to move on to our 10th country, Costa Rica. We were looking forward to relaxing in the sun.

For over two months, we had been on the move: biking/hiking through northern Vietnam, skiing in Japan, and hiking in Peru. We were tired. We decided on a spacious two-bedroom AirBnB by the beach. The pool was the size of five pools combined with a great lounge area. It was the perfect spot for us to unwind.

It was also nice to finally have some room to relax and have a fully stocked kitchen. We had been eating out every meal for most of our trip. The kids were getting decision fatigue when it came to ordering food. Sleeping in and cooking breakfast instead of having to get dressed and find a restaurant was a welcome change to our routine.

*****

Costa Rica is known for it’s thrilling outdoor adventures. Our kids wanted to try out zip-lining. Our ziplining tour started in the late morning and it was already steamy. There were ten ziplines in our package and the kids were nervous and excited.

The side-by-side took us all the way to the top. As usual, I was anxious. Parker and I have done a lot of wild things before we had kids. We’ve both bungee jumped, and sky dived, which are two of the tamer situations we’ve put ourselves in. But with kids, trying something new gets my stomach in a knot. Will they remember not to place their hand in front of them on the line so it doesn’t get smashed against the block at the end? Will they remember how to break if needed?  Will I remember?

Fortunately, Parker is always confidant and enthusiastic (at least he hides any nervousness well). We were high up on the mountain, deep in the jungle. It was hot but at least shady. We started off with a couple of slow and short lines for practice. Then we escalated to faster and longer lines. On the sixth line, the kids and Parker hung upside down. The next one was really long and super-fast. We all remembered to keep our hands behind us.

It got extremely hot (mid-90s) and extremely humid very quickly. Cruz got a little dizzy but pulled through. It was a great tour through the jungle and we also got to see the ocean. After, we enjoyed a nice lunch. It was a fun outing.

 

*****

Costa Rica is known for it’s surfing, so of course we checked it out. The waves were beginner size but strong and consistent. We have been slowly building our surfing skills and  can easily pop up and ride the beginner to medium waves. The rocks on the beach were not pleasant to land on but the waves were solid. On this trip, we have surfed in Portugal, the Philippines, Vietnam, and now Costa Rica!

The rest of our time was spent doing absolutely nothing other than eventually making it down to the pool by mid-afternoon and walking the beach at sunset.

Although we enjoyed our time in Costa Rica, we did find it overly touristy and extremely expensive. Everything was more than US prices, ($30 for a 10 inch pizza...no thanks!). Surprisingly, it was the most expensive destination on our trip. Also, we had just been immersed in some of the most culturally rich countries in the world and we found Costa Rica to be somewhat lacking in that.

However, Costa Ricans (Ticos/Ticas) take their lifestyle of Pura Vida (Pure Life) very seriously. We can see the appeal for those looking for the simple and carefree life. That is certainly what we did during our time there, no schedule and no stress. Pura Vida!

The Sacred Valley: Ollaytantabo

The Sacred Valley

Ollantaytambo was our next destination after we dodged the landslides on our train ride from Machu Picchu. Ollantaytambo is a small Incan city of roughly 12,000 people in the sacred valley next to the Urubamba River.  It was the perfect city to explore due to its well-preserved culture and proximity to many hikes. The ancient city is known for its Incan architecture, cobble stoned streets, and open drainage system. It is considered one of the living Inca cities because residents still maintain traditional ways of life that have been passed down for centuries.

The city has historical significance in that it was a stronghold against the Spanish Invasion. Due to the defeat of the Spanish in Ollantaytambo and the isolation of Machu Picchu, the Spanish never found the Lost City of the Incas. Stepping out of our hotel at the city center, we went on three amazing hikes to: the Granaries, the Sun Gate, and the Fortress.

*****

Hike 1: The Granaries

The Granaries can be seen anywhere from the city as it is perched high on a cliff. Our kids were excited to hike up to the mysterious structure hanging off over the city.

The trail is well marked and is straight up the mountain. Although it’s a short hike, it can be challenging with the altitude. The granaries were used by the Incas to store grains, corn, potatoes, etc. Its unusual location was effective to keep away rodents and the weather. The kids went straight up and started exploring right away. The slight drizzle made the walk more interesting. It was a nice morning hike with a rewarding panoramic view of the valley.

*****

Sunrise Start

Hike 2: Inti Punku/Sun Gate

Our big hike from Ollantaytambo was the 10-mile round-trip hike up to Inti Punku, the Sun Gate. The Sun Gate sits on top of a mountain at 12,700 ft and serves as the main entrance to Machu Picchu (four days trek away).

When we told our kids we were going on a 10-mile hike to 12,700 ft, they said, “Piece of cake!”. Our little rock stars have walked hundreds of miles in the past year and have hiked up to 16,300 ft. We love how strong and confident they have become outdoors.

Anticipating that this walk would take us 6-8 hours, we began at 6am. We came prepared with food, water, and all the layers for every weather conditions. As the sun rose and as we began our ascent, we warmed up quickly and started shedding layers. The trail was lined with beautiful wildflowers, and we had fantastic views of the river valley below.

This hike has an elevation gain of 4,000 feet from the river.  Along the way we passed the stone quarries where the Incans shaped the massive stones for the fortress in Ollantaytambo.

Resting Rock

The kids took as many breaks as they needed and rested on giant stones that were discarded long ago, on their way to build the fortress in the city . They laid on the boulders like lizards soaking up the sun. We let them rest but we had to make sure we kept moving forward and upward.

The elevation gain was challenging so I lead and kept a slow and steady pace. More than halfway through, we could see the Sun Gate ahead. Sometimes this is good and sometimes it is not helpful to see how much you have left to go. We had been climbing for almost four hours.

So close...

Cruz got a little impatient. I told him to imagine himself on top and finally seeing the great view. He said, “I’m imagining my self at the top and enjoying my lunch”! We cracked up as we watched him practically run the last half mile or so.

For the last two hours of the ascent, we could see the Sun Gate in the distance. It was so close yet so far, we all felt the four-thousand elevation gain and were relieved to finally reach the gate.

The Sun Gate is a simple yet imposing structure on top of a mountain. In the morning (and especially during the solstice) the sun’s rays passes through the stone door. It was a religious site and an astronomical observatory, a gateway between the living and the spiritual. We stood alone on top of the mountain, completely exposed to the elements. As we took in the 360 panoramic views of the Andes, we felt the incredible energy of this site.

The Beautiful Andes!

We took a well-deserved hour lunch to rest and enjoy the view.  We could see Ollantaytambo five miles away, the Urubamba river below, and the impressive peak of Mt. Veronica at 19,226 ft. It was starting to get chilly so we decided to head down and practically ran down the mountain. Descents are always fun, but you still must be careful. What took us four hours to climb, we hustled down in two hours.

This hike was one of our favorites on our entire trip. Surprisingly, we only saw a few groups the entire day. This hike had it all: no crowds, killer views, challenging altitude gain of 4,000ft, a great day hike at 10 miles, and cultural significance.

 

Hike 3: Ollantaytambo Fortress

Our final hike was to explore the Fortress that was at the edge of the city. The fortress was a religious site turned into a military post during the Spanish invasion. The fortress was built with the huge boulders from the quarries (4 miles away) that we passed on our hike up to the Sun Gate.

The terraces are massive with over 200 steps that take you to the Sun Gate and temple. The kids were surprised to hear that there was a Sun Gate right in the middle of town after we hiked over 10 miles to the other sun gate a couple of days before! Yes kiddos, there are multiple sun gates in the sacred valley.

The most impressive structure was Temple Hill. The Temple del Sol consists of six huge rectangular stones, with each stone being approximately 13 ft. tall and 6 ft. wide. The rocks found in the complex are perfectly polished and precisely cut.  Somehow, the builders were able to transport these giant stones and placed them perfectly beside and on top of each other. We continued a trail above the site. On top, we could see the granary, the city, the river, the quarry, and the sun gate.

We all loved Ollantaytambo. It felt like we had stepped back in time. From where we were staying in Town Center, we could see all our three hikes.  The locals were friendly, the food was delicious, and the views were fantastic.  Most visitors only see it while passing on their way to Machu Picchu but it deserves at least a couple of days to explore.

Peru easily became one of our favorite destinations on our trip. We’ll never forget hiking up to Rainbow Mountain (16,300ft), our week in Ollantaytambo (and eventually pronouncing the town name correctly),  and seeing Machu Picchu for the first time. We also might have developed a slight alpaca obsession. Peru is a beautiful country that is incredibly rich in landscape, history, and culture.

 

 

 

 

Machu Picchu: The Lost City of the Incas

1 subway, 2 trains, 2 buses, 3 taxis, and 6 flights later ...

... we finally made it to Machu Picchu!  We took 14 modes of transport to travel from Northern Japan!

*****

Last year, we booked a 6 night/7day trek on the Salkantay/Inca Trail that would lead us to Machu Picchu.  This is how we hoped to experience Peru, by hiking through the Andes and hiking up to "The Lost City of the Incas" with our kids. However, nature had other plans. Our trek was cancelled (along with our entry tickets to the ruins) due to landslides in the Salkantay region. The Inca Trail was also closed due to the inclement weather. 

Our trek was cancelled while we were in Japan. We had been preparing for this since our walk across Spain. We had also been carrying our basic gear and layers for ten months in preparation for the conditions in the Andes. Also, while traveling through Vietnam and Japan we started breaking in our kids' hiking boots. Parker and I were heavily disappointed to say the least.

Flights and accommodations were already booked so we decided to continue on to Peru. We had to redo our entire itinerary literally on the fly (while we were plane hopping across the Pacific Ocean). It was a stressful situation but we decided to make the most of it.

PeruRail to Aguas Calientes

After a lot of research, we found out that the Ministry of Cultures reserves tickets for walk-ins at Aguas Calientes, the last town before Machu Picchu. Tickets online have already been sold out for months.  Imagine booking 14 modes of transport to a destination and not be guaranteed an entry. It felt risky to go all the way to Aguas Calientes without tickets to Machu Picchu but this was our only choice. 

We explored beautiful Cuzco (and Rainbow Mt) for five days, hopped on a two-hour bus to Ollantaytambo, and then a train to Aguas Calientes. The Vistadome Train on PeruRail was a great way to see the Andes. The train provided panoramic views with windows all around with the skylight overhead. The scenery was breathtaking as we followed Urubamba River to the base of Machu Picchu.

It's a whole process to get these tickets. As soon as we arrived, we had to go to the Ministry of Cultures, get an appointment time for later that day, come back for our appointment, and hope for a good circuit ticket for the following day.

Machu Picchu tickets are divided into three main cuircuts: Circuit 1 is the Panoramic, Circuit 2 is the Inka City, and Circuit 3 is the Royal Circuit. These three circuits have a total of ten options combined. To our surprise, four tickets were available for the 2A circuit (the best circuit with the the best views). Finally, a little luck was on our side.

*****

Our Machu Picchu day was filled with much anticipation (mostly from me). The morning was overcast and drizzly but when we arrived at the site the rain stopped. Another lucky break! The circuits are one way and you only get two and a half hours to explore your designated route. Although it was busy, the groups tried to give each other space.

My first glimpse of the City in the Clouds took my breath away. I saw that it had the same effect on Parker. We made it. Below us was one of the New Wonders of the World. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Lost City of the Incas was surrounded in mystical clouds. 

The site has an indescribable palatable energy. Perched on top of the mountain were the ancient ruins of the last Incan Civilization that perfectly blended into the Andes Mountains.  We were in awe. 

Machu Picchu was built for the Incan Emperor Pachacutec. It served as a religious site and royal estate. The city sits on top of the mountain at 7,972ft, surrounded by the stunning Peruvian Andes.  The citadel consists of temples, terraces, fountains, and an intricate water management systems.

We walked up several platforms where we could take in the panoramic views. We spent about an hour on top and when we made our way down, it started to drizzle as the clouds came in. The poor visitors with a 12pm entry didn't get to see the panoramic view. 

Our guide lead us around the ruins in the rain. Of course we came prepared for the rain and really enjoyed experiencing the ruins that way. Due to the precipitation, we saw the intricate irrigation system in action. Machu Picchu has many natural springs and has 19 interconnected fountains.

The primary structures of the citadel are: Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Three Windows, and the Intihuatana (Sacred Rock) where religious ceremonies and rituals took place. The Sacred Rock is believed to have been used by the Incas as a sundial and as an astronomical calendar. The Inca's architectural and astronomical knowledge is remarkable.

On our way out, we walked by llamas that lived at the site. We felt so lucky to that we got to see the panoramic view of the whole of the ancient city and got to explore the citadel in the rain.

The rain stopped at the end of our tour. We opted to walk down the mountain to Aguas Calientes instead of taking the bus. It was 1,600 carved steps from the top down to the river! The 8kms to town had an elevation drop of 3,600ft. Our legs were jello when we got to the bottom. Walking down through the subtropical foliage was a memorable way to end our remarkable day.

*****

The next day, on our way out of Agua Calientes, a train coming towards us called for our train to stop. We were only 15 minutes into our one and a half hour journey to Ollantaytambo (the only way in, or out of Aquas Calientes is on this train line near the river). There had been a landslide ahead of us on the tracks, and an earth mover was called to remove the rocks.

Our train was delayed five hours, turning our one and a half hour train ride into a seven hour all-day ordeal. We learned that it was actually two land slides and a section of the tracks was damaged and had to be replaced. When we were finally cleared to move forward, we saw the rocks and the old track casted of to the side. The landslide was only five minutes away from where our train stopped.

My heart skipped a beat as I realized how close we were to the landslide. All of our disappointment in the cancelation of our trek dissipated in that moment. Parker and I exchange glances, acknowledging our luck in dodging a dangerous situation.  

This trek was originally on our last Around the World itinerary in 2010/2011. But we decided to go home early, at 18 months, to start our family. Parker and I promised each other that we would take our future children on a trek to see Machu Picchu.

In the end we got to see the Natural Wonder of Machu Picchu. I lack the words to describe its marvel. We are grateful that in our once in a life time chance with out kids, the clouds parted briefly and we got to see and experience it together.